FROM
END TO END
An Overview: Phoenix to Albuquerque on Foot
Milepoint
1 - 46 :: Superstition Mountains
Phoenix to Superior
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The
Grand Enchantment Trail begins 45 miles east of downtown Phoenix,
AZ at the First Water Trailhead in the Superstition Mountains
(Tonto National Forest). It follows foot trail east into this
rugged volcanic desert range, winding through lush canyon bottoms
and over viewful passes, past saguaro cacti, teddy bear cholla,
jojoba, and other highly-adapted plants of the lower Sonoran desert.
Weaver's Needle, a dramatic rock fang, is often in view,
marking the location of the mythical Lost Dutchman's Gold
while adding to the real-world grandeur of this landscape. East
of sheer-walled Upper La Barge Box, the route climbs toward scenic
Horse Ridge and Tortilla Pass, now in the upper Sonoran desert
life zone, before descending to follow the rockbound drainage
of Rogers Creek and passing near a 700 year old Salado cliff
dwelling. Here the GET joins the Arizona Trail, not
far from the gravesite and former ranch of Elisha Reavis, the
"hermit of the Superstitions." Following the AZ Trail
south, the route climbs chaparral-cloaked Montana Mountain with
sweeping views, then drops steeply to follow the drainages of
Reavis and Whitford canyons, finally leaving the Superstitions
and reaching US Hwy 60 four miles west of the town of Superior
nearby the renowned Boyce Thompson Southwestern Arboretum.
Milepoint 46-112 :: White Canyon Wilderness & Tortilla Mtns
Superior to Mammoth
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Continuing
southbound along the route of the Arizona Trail, the GET follows
a combination of foot trail, marked route, and jeep roads into
the little-known White Canyon Wilderness (BLM), a small
but superlative landscape of remnant volcanic peaks and colorful
ash-flow sedimentary cliffs. The Sonoran desert here is in fine
form, with dense stands of saguaros and many other unique plants
on display. After a challenging hike and an excellent stretch
of newly built trail, the route reaches the tree-lined banks of
the Gila River where it seeks out a bridged crossing upstream.
Beyond, the terrain gradually mellows and long-range views highlight
the distant Sky Island range of the Santa Catalina Mountains
near Tucson. The route continues to follow an adventurous network
of dirt roads and completed trail as it seeks out lone Antelope
Peak, a low volcanic outlier of the Tortilla Mountains. Eventually
the GET and AZT part company, as our route turns east along the
wide sandy bottom of Putnam Wash in the company of dark basalt
cliffs, then across the gentle San Pedro River in its corridor
of shady cottonwoods, to reach AZ Hwy 77 ten miles north of tiny
Mammoth AZ.
Milepoint 112 - 222 :: Aravaipa Canyon, Santa Teresa & Pinaleno
sky islands
Mammoth (and Klondyke) to Safford
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East
of AZ Hwy 77 the Grand Enchantment Trail heads cross-country in
the wide, sporadically-flowing wash of Aravaipa Creek in open
desert, then joins dirt Aravaipa Road to reach the entrance to
spectacular Aravaipa Canyon (BLM Wilderness). Sheer canyon
walls rise a thousand feet above the lush, deciduous banks of
perennial Aravaipa Creek, as our route travels in its watery midst
for some 12 magical miles. A quiet dirt road resumes east of the
canyon, leading within range of the remote outpost of Klondyke
and a potential maildrop resupply, before our route turns northeast
to climb into the extreme rugged terrain of the Santa Teresa
Wilderness (Coronado National Forest). Little-used trails
provide supreme solitude en route through the eroded granite-rock
wonderland of Holdout Canyon, then over 7000' Cottonwood
Mountain with its jagged pinnacles, and south to reach Klondyke
Road. Tripp Canyon leads back into the forest once again, where
the GET rejoins foot trail to climb high into the Pinaleno
Range (Coronado NF), passing serene Riggs Lake and
the scenic fire tower atop 10,000' Webb Peak, where snow may linger
well into spring. The desert heat seems as far away as the distant
views atop this tallest of the Sky Island ranges, which include
such sights as the Rincons, Huachucas, Chiricahuas, and the Mogollon
Mountains in New Mexico. Leaving the high country, we follow the
magnificent forest-and-crag defile of Ash Creek Canyon toward
the open desert nearly 7000' below, passing through an astonishing
range of life zones in only a few miles. Finally the route joins
quiet creosote-flanked dirt roads for several miles to reach the
outskirts of bustling Safford, with most services available.
Milepoint 222 - 282 :: Safford-Morenci Trail, Bonita & Eagle
creeks
Safford to Morenci & Clifton
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The
Old Safford-Morenci Trail follows a former trade route
between the two towns from which it finds its name. The GET follows
quiet, viewful dirt roads and washes north of Safford to join
this BLM-administered historic trail in the high desert Gila Mountains
of Arizona, where recently improved foot trail and occasional
creek beds make for interesting, remote, and highly varied trekking.
Colorful box canyons lead into and out of the valley of riparian
Bonita Creek about half way along, and beyond the route
climbs to Bellmeyer Saddle, a scenic grassy expanse at 6000'.
Descending to Eagle Creek in its rugged, winding gorge
- prime bighorn sheep country - an alternate route soon
climbs away, while the main GET turns north, following Eagle Creek's
canyon upstream, with numerous (though generally mild) fords.
White-nosed coati are often seen cavorting among sycamores
and cottonwoods in the creekside riparian forest. At length the
Painted Bluff Trail leads us east away from the river, along the
way offering glimpses of ancient petroglyphs in a high-desert
mountain landscape rich with solitude. Views at last open toward
the vast open-pit of the Morenci copper mine as our route
descends to cross the Coronado Trail, a famously serpentine mountain
highway with potential opportunities for a ride into Morenci village.
Historic Clifton, another resupply option, lies several
miles farther downhill, a virtual living history museum to the
region's early mining days.
Milepoint 282 - 330 :: The Blue Range and Blue River
Clifton AZ to Glenwood NM
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The
jumbled ridges of Arizona's Blue Range spread north and
the GET contours along their flanks, following foot trail among
shrubby live oak and manzanita, interspersed with shady groves
of conifers, and maples alive with color in autumn. Views eastward
extend to the Mogollon Mountains along our route in New Mexico,
and to the nearer canyon system of the Blue River, toward
which we now descend. Fording the river just once, in a remote
and trackless area, the wildness of the scene before us is truly
written in the sands at creekside, where Merriam's turkey,
black bear, and mountain lion leave evidence of
their passage. Foot trail resumes en route toward prominent Maple
Peak (8000'), from which a vantage of the Blue Range Primitive
Area extends away toward the Mogollon Rim. Descending to reach
the Arizona/New Mexico boundary, the GET joins dirt road and heads
east through classic New Mexican high desert pinyon/juniper grassland
toward the tiny village of Alma, 4 miles north of more accommodating
Glenwood.
Milepoint 330 - 384 :: Mogollon Mountains & West Fork Gila
River
Glenwood to Gila Hot Springs
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Whitewater
Mesa east of Hwy 180 offers a surreal open-air perch at the base
of the lofty Mogollon Range. The GET leaves the mesa not far from
Mogollon ghost town to access the Gila Wilderness via Whitewater
Canyon, entering the National Forest near the renowned Catwalk
National Recreation Trail, a series of suspended walkways
along a sheer and narrow gorge. Our trail climbs gradually along
the forested and impressively cliff-bound canyon of Whitewater
Creek's South Fork, then turns east to surmount the 10,000'
crest of the steep-sided and deeply forested Mogollons, often
snowbound well into spring. (An alternate route circumvents the
crest.) Mogollon Baldy (10,770'), highest mountain directly
along the route, affords truly awe-inspiring vistas from its open
summit, including a glimpse of Mount Graham in Arizona and ahead
toward the San Mateo Mountains. Old growth forest offers
its rare and solemn ambience along the well-graded descent toward
the West Fork Gila River, where wildflower meadows invite
pause near the entrance to its pinnacled canyon. Foot trail continues
into the strikingly faceted canyon, writhing and fording its way
some 16 memorable miles to the entrance of Gila Cliff Dwellings
National Monument. A high-water detour also rejoins here,
3 miles north of historic Doc Campbell's Trading Post and the
community of Gila Hot Springs.
Milepoint 384 - 483 :: Gila Country and the Continental Divide
Gila Hot Springs to Monticello
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The
Grand Enchantment Trail continues its water-blessed way through
the majesty of Gila Country, first along the Middle Fork Gila
River, then climbing above its canyon below Jordan Hot
Spring to cross open mesas toward a meeting with the Gila's
gentler East Fork as well as Diamond Creek, a prime tributary.
Foot trails, both maintained and use, continue to allow nearly
seamless travel as the route enters park-like Tom Moore Canyon.
Here an adventurous side trip gains access to an enticing slot
canyon, while the GET strides more easily in open ponderosa
forest - prime elk habitat - climbing gently toward the
canyon of South Diamond Creek. A short switchbacking descent accesses
the verdant canyon bottom, where our route begins a final climb
toward the Continental Divide. Views abound on the Black Range
Crest near 9800' Diamond Peak, from which the Continental
Divide Trail leads north for several miles of well-graded ridgewalking,
while young aspens lend spectacular fall color in the many
old burn areas along the way. To the north the Divide mellows
and ponderosas take hold once more as the GET/CDT tours on recently-built
trail tread - little-used but in good condition. After 45 miles,
the GET leaves the Continental Divide near Wahoo Peak to head
east, downhill to the Gila National Forest boundary, where we
exit the forest some 140 miles from our entrance near Glenwood.
Dirt roads and cross-country travel then lead through rolling
juniper-yucca desert toward the entrance to Monticello Box
Canyon and Ojo Caliente (Warm Spring), still sacred
to the Apaches who once called this land home. Beyond, the GET
follows the perennial waters of Alamosa Creek to within 10 miles
of the peaceful hamlet of Monticello and a possible resupply opportunity.
Milepoint 483 - 562 :: San Mateo and Magdalena mountains
Monticello to Magdalena
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The
bold, talus-strewn profile of the San Mateo Mountains looms ahead
as the GET follows a lonely track known as the Burma Road among
juniper-grassland. Ahead, the rugged defile of Shipman Canyon
offers access to the Cibola National Forest and Apache Kid
Wilderness, among the least travelled of wilderness areas
in New Mexico. Seldom visited and providing one of the finest
high-elevation wilderness experiences along the route, the Apache
Kid also offers retreat for mountain lion and black bear, the
latter in increasing numbers. Once upon a time, Native Americans
did the same, and our route passes close by the grave of the legendary
outlaw nicknamed Apache Kid, high on the 10,000' crest
of the range. Scenery and solitude abound as we head north along
the rugged ridge, joining the adjacent Withington Wilderness
to explore a pair of fire lookouts, including Mt Withington's
(10,100') with views of the vast Plains of San Agustin below
and first glimpses of the Sandia Crest near Albuquerque. The drainage
of Potato Canyon serves up interesting geology as the GET descends
east off the crest, back into the high desert to follow 4WD roads
and cross-country canyons in search of our next Sky Island range,
the Magdalena Mountains. Here, an undulating ascent on
foot trail leads to one of the finest ridgewalks on the entire
route, with open, alpine-like terrain near South Baldy (10,783'),
frequent meadows, and a knife edge traverse. The Langmuir lightning
research facility is located here as well, alongside the Magdalena
Ridge Observatory, an ultra-high-resolution telescope array
currently under development. Old mining track descends north as
the GET returns to high-desert country again near the famed ghost
town of Kelly, 3 miles south of historic Magdalena and our
next respite along the route.
Milepoint 562 - 633 :: Rio Grande Valley & the Chihuahuan
Desert
Magdalena to Mountainair
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A
variety of desert environments provide exhilarating open-air walking
as the Grand Enchantment Trail extends northeastward from Magdalena.
North of US Hwy 60 the route makes use of forest roads on a brief
tour of the Bear Mountains, then crosses the wide juniper-grassland
valley of La Jencia Creek via an enjoyable network of 2-tracks
and cross-country travel. Ladron Peak, wild and little-explored,
stands sentinel on the distant horizon, while ahead lies the smaller
Polvadera range, which we approach, watching for herds of pronghorn
antelope, before descending to reach San Lorenzo Canyon.
Here the route follows a sandy wash into a colorful, sheer-walled
box canyon, with several labyrinthine slots available for exploration,
then reaches the fertile Rio Grande valley and a resupply option
at tiny Polvadera (or larger Socorro). The GET winds through the
Rio Grande bosque, or "riverside woods," fording
the wide, shallow river (high water detour available), then proceeds
back into the Chihuahuan desert, where cross-country travel
and lonely 2-track roads lead past intriguing mesas and unnamed
desert peaks. Our tour of this little-known region culminates
again at Hwy 60, here 18 miles west of Mountainair, a small ranching
town offering basic provisions.
Milepoint 633 - 706 :: Manzano Mountains
Mountainair to Tijeras
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The
Abo District of Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument
makes for a worthwhile detour along US Hwy 60. Northward, the
GET explores a series of secluded sandstone arroyos, often with
spring pools, then ascends via 2-track to a pinyon-juniper forested
plateau at the foot of the Manzano Mountains. A well-worn
forest road leads a half hour or so to Pine Shadow Trailhead,
where our route joins foot trail, climbing sharply to Manzano
Peak (10,098') at the southern end of the fault-block range. Here
begins a memorable 2 day traverse of the Manzano Crest Trail,
as we wind along an extraordinary ridge, over summits clad in
spruce and fir, through aspen-blessed meadows, and along the edge
of a sheer limestone "reef," often within sight of the
vast Rio Grande valley below. The Manzano Hawk Watch site
is here, an ideal vantage from which to view raptors in migration
along this natural mountain corridor. Black bear are commonly
seen among the forests and meadows, especially near Capilla Peak
Campground, a popular retreat along the way. Finally our route
descends eastward, leaving the Manzano Wilderness and, at Canon
Tajique, entering a lush forest of Rocky Mountain large-tooth
maples, crimson in fall and among the finest such groves in
all of ew Mexico. Regaining the Cibola National Forest at meadow-blessed
David Canyon, foot trails lead us north toward Otero Canyon, much-loved
among locals, and fragile Cedro Canyon, harboring deep pools and
lush riparian growth now restored to health, a story of success
for nature at the wildland-urban boundary. A brief climb to the
juniper-cloaked flanks above Tunnel Canyon rewards with close-up
views of nearing Sandia Crest. A short roadwalk then leads into
Tijeras, located along old Route 66, and offering a final
maildrop option for Albuquerque-bound hikers.
Milepoint 706 - 729 :: Sandia Crest
Tijeras to Albuquerque
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The
Grand Enchantment Trail ascends the gentle east face of the Sandia
Crest - the final mountain range on our enchanted tour - then
suddenly reaches a vantage westward. The silent mountain drops
precipitously to the valley floor and the dazzling spectacle of
Albuquerque overwhelms the senses. Northward along the crest our
trail continues, winding through primeval forest of aspen-spruce-fir
and reaching further outlooks toward the other world beyond. We
wander through sunny meadows, encountering few people, then climb
higher, reaching the Sandia Crest Aerial Tram and meeting
perhaps the first tourists of our journey. Now with company we
marvel at the spires and cliffs before us, then climb onward through
dense boreal forest toward the height of the crest (10,678), pausing
perhaps for a meal at the summit house. The GET now descends westward,
following the popular La Luz Trail into rockbound La Cueva
Canyon, (then onto the Tramway Trail) a well constructed and rewarding
route that links mountain with desert, wilderness with civilization,
our journey with our memories of a grand and enchanting place.
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