Guidebook

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Segment 13: Old Safford-Morenci Trail  15.0 miles

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Segment Length	from PHX	to ABQ	Segment Status	Season
15.0 mi.	251		finalized & accessible	fall, winter, spring
Resources
OVERVIEW MAP ELEVATION PROFILE G.E.T. Topo Maps 38-39 Water Chart Image Gallery: Album 4				Additional maps: Safford 1:100K Topographic (BLM) Clifton 1:100K Topographic (BLM) visit PLIC website Land management agency: BLM Safford Field Office (928) 348-4400

SEGMENT OVERVIEW

This segment follows the historic Old Safford-Morenci Trail in its entirety. The BLM's Safford Field Office website offers the following description of the trail:

"Pioneer ranchers and farmers in the Gila Valley built this trail about 1874 to haul their products to the booming mines of the Clifton-Morenci area. After the advent of the automobile in the early 1900s, new roads were constructed along other routes. One was the Safford-Clifton Road (now called the Black Hills Back Country Byway). Decreasing use of the Safford-Morenci Trail resulted in little maintenance, and it became more difficult to follow. Today, the Safford-Morenci Trail is managed by the BLM as a recreation trail for non-motorized uses. Although the trail was originally used as a pack trail for supplying mining camps in and around Morenci it is now impassable in places for horseback riders.

"Hikers can enjoy a variety of desert and riparian environments along the trail. Bonita Creek, part of the Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area, is crossed about midway and makes a good primitive camping spot. Javelina, black bear, mule deer, bighorn sheep, and mountain lions inhabit this area. Numerous birds, including raptors such as golden eagles and peregrine falcons, may also be seen. Riparian areas are especially good for colorful neotropical migratory birds. Hikers can encounter prehistoric cliff dwellings, remnants of early homesteads, majestic rock outcrops, and sweeping views of the Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area, the Gila Mountains, and the high points beyond."

Thanks to the ongoing efforts of the BLM in Safford, the Safford-Morenci Trail is now well on its way to becoming one of southeast Arizona's premier backcountry recreation trails. Several miles of newly reconstructed trail make for easier, more enjoyable passage, and more work is planned for coming seasons. The Safford-Morenci Trail follows a combination of foot trail, 4WD tracks, and cross-county drainages, and features occasional brown and (older) green metal signs marked "TRAIL."

With the exception of perennial Bonita Creek, only a spring trough in South Smith Canyon near the end of this segment should be considered fairly reliable in drier times. Where the route follows drainages, expect a rocky go of it, but also a wonderful sense of solitude and even the occasional section of scenic slot canyon to explore.

Please note that the total mileage in this segment is only an estimate. The route may be up to a mile longer than the stated 15 miles, although the rough terrain in places can make it feel several miles longer still.

An interesting account of the Safford-Morenci Trail, with much historical insight, is featured on the Arizona Highways Magazine's website. Read the article here.

ROUTE DETAILS

At the Old Safford-Morenci Trail west trailhead (waypoint 12200, el. 4700') sign the user register, then proceed north on trail tread. The well-defined trail soon turns east and climbs a bit to a low saddle, then descends north into a canyon among pinyon pines and junipers. At 0.9 of a mile, pass through a fence opening. The trail soon crosses the drainage several times as it continues downhill, eventually settling on its west side.

Emerge from the narrow canyon to cross a rocky wash at 1.3. Cairns may assist in following the trail, such as where it turns sharply right less than 0.1 mi. beyond the wash. Cross the drainage again at 1.7 (waypoint 13030). The route now follows a wide track, soon passing a potential dry camp at right among the pinyons. The track crosses the drainage three more times, then climbs out on the left with rocks lining the sides of the meandering treadway. Passing over the berm of a dry stock pond (2.2, waypoint 13040) the trail contours into a little canyon, following along its west side, before joining the drainage itself just above an old mortar dam. Soon reach a 4WD road and wooden Safford-Morenci Trail sign at 2.4 (waypoint 13050). Turn left (northeast) onto the road. (Westbounders, look for the wooden sign at right as the road reaches the drainage.)

The 4WD road undulates northward in pleasant, open country, passing a couple of tracks that head off at right. The second track (waypoint 13060) leads over to the corral and stock pond visible eastward, an unreliable source.

Following a steep descent, reach the wide wash of Johnny Creek and a Safford-Morenci Trail sign at 3.8 . A de facto vehicle camping area is ahead a short distance along the road, with live-oak shade. Our route turns right (east), rejoining foot trail, first in the wash then along its banks. East of waypoint 13090 constructed trail was sporadic as of fall '09, but will eventually persist to the vicinity of a low cement dam at 4.8, apparently an artifact from the trade route's former heyday.

Climbing over the dam (easiest at its right side, looking down-canyon), continue on the Safford-Morenci Trail, now entirely in Johnny Creek Canyon's wash. The wash remains very rocky all the way to Bonita Creek, so expect a sub-2mph hiking pace through here. Ahead, the canyon features several minor slots that occasionally hold pools of water. Beyond the slots, watch for a trail sign and cairn marking where foot trail leaves the drainage at left (milepoint 6.0, waypoint 13110). The trail climbs around an impassable pour-off in the drainage below, while offering an interesting vantage of Bonita Creek's riparian corridor and the colorful ridge of Turtle Mountain beyond. Descend sharply to rejoin the drainage at 6.3. (Westbounders, look for the trail sign at right where foot trail leaves the drainage; waypoint 13120.) Now with occasional large cairns for guidance, continue cross-country in the bouldery wash to its confluence with Bonita Creek, at 6.7 (waypoint 13130, elev. 3770').

Ford the normally gentle, ankle-to-shin-deep flow of Bonita Creek. The creek setting is very attractive in its corridor of cottonwoods, willows, and sycamores. Beaver activity has recently been increasing in this area, and a small dam had been built just above the trail crossing, with a good-sized pond above. You may note a small cliff dwelling on the canyon wall to the northeast, actually a prehistoric granary; the cliffs are now too fragile to permit up-close inspection. More approachable is the Old Lady Gay Cabin, a pioneer-era homestead recently restored by the BLM and located off-route about a mile up-canyon. (To reach it, first continue ahead per the description for the main route.)

Occasional brown metal TRAIL signs, cairns, and flagging lead east through the creek's rocky, brushy flood plain. Efforts to keep a trail corridor open here seem all but hopeless, as the flood-tolerant shrub known as desert broom grows prolifically. In less than 100 yards, just beyond a trail sign, reach a massive white-barked Arizona sycamore. Here turn right to follow the main route, potentially with flagging leading the way. (An attractive campsite, as well as the Old Lady Gay Cabin, can be reached by instead turning left at the sycamore. Look for flagging leading away from the flood plain and into a mesquite grove. The flagging then leads north through a grassy, sycamore-shaded, camp-friendly flat, and onto an old roadbed. The route to the cabin becomes mostly cross-country as it hops the creek, passing an old wooden corral chute, then crosses back to the east side to find the cabin a hundred yards or so beyond.)

The main route continues south a short ways in Bonita Creek's flood plain to the confluence with the drainage of Midnight Canyon (waypoint 13140). If the flood plain is boggy from beaver activity, you can follow a short cairned bypass through the adjacent mesquite grove. At Midnight Canyon's wash, the Safford-Morenci Trail turns left (east) and follows the wide wash up-canyon. The canyon eventually narrows to a slot and becomes quite dramatic, with red-rock conglomerate walls occasionally only a few feet wide. About half-way through the slot a series of mortared steps allows passage over a pour-off, presumably built to assist pack animals in the trail's early days. The steps also serve to contain pools of water in wetter times. Beyond the slot, turn left (north) where the drainage forks (waypoint 13150) and follow the wash to a 4WD crossing, at 7.8 (waypoint 13160).

The Safford-Morenci Trail now turns left (north) onto 4WD East Bonita Rim Rd, which crosses the drainage again at 8.4. Keep straight at the junction with signed Christensen Rd at 9.1. Toppy's Cave, named for the reclusive cattle rustler Toppy Johnson who once called it home, is located in the impressive volcanic cliff face high on Turtle Mountain to the east. Stay on E. Bonita Rim Rd to 9.7 (waypoint 13180), where recently reconstructed trail heads left.

The well-graded trail ascends with occasional switchbacks to the head of Midnight Canyon. Trail crews have done a commendable job in smoothing the way through this surpassingly rocky landscape, although the trail tread will be difficult to keep free of brush without more frequent use. Reach the broad ridge of Turtle Mountain by an open gate at 11.0 (waypoint 13200, el. 6060'). This is Bellmeyer Saddle, the literal and figurative high point of the Safford-Morenci Trail. Be sure to walk the short distance over to the saddle's impressive westward outlook; the panorama includes lower Midnight Canyon, upper Bonita Creek, the Gila Mountains, and beyond, floating like a vision on the horizon, the high crest of the Pinaleno Range. Nearby you may find the memorial to Albert Bellmeyer, a pile of rocks marking the spot where he was ambushed and killed in 1892 by Apaches for grazing cattle on Indian land. (Bellmeyer may have been killed by the legendary Apache Kid, whose own gravesite the G.E.T. passes at Cyclone Saddle in the San Mateo Mountains (Segment 28), a similarly remote, mountainous spot where the renegade "Kid" was allegedly ambushed by area ranchers in retribution for his many attacks.)

From the saddle, foot trail proceeds southeast into the head of South Smith Canyon, at first with views eastward toward Morenci Mine and the distant Mogollon Mountains. Initially the trail follows the south bank of the drainage, then meanders back and forth in the drainage bottom as it widens down-canyon. Although very cobbly (as elsewhere) and somewhat slow-going, the canyon bottom is enjoyable for its low, shady canopy of oak, pinyon pine, and juniper.

The trail becomes a wide, rocky track soon before a side canyon joins from the left at 13.2, (waypoint 13210). (Westbounders, take the left fork, perhaps noting green metal TRAIL signs.) Newly-built trail resumes below the fork, but ends back at the old road by a metal sign and cairn, just west of a metal stock tank and trough (which sometimes has a bit of algae- and insect-bespangled water). Another canyon merges, this time from the right, at 13.6 (13230). (Westbounders be sure to keep right here; don't mistake this fork for the one ahead at 13.2.)

Mature cottonwoods and willows shade the little oasis surrounding Smith Spring, A metal pipe runs from the spring source in the cliff face above to the vicinity of an old wooden structure; listen for a trickle of water from the pipe's outlet, which is somewhat hidden by brush in the drainage here. You may also find pools and some flow where the trail crosses the drainage below. Just beyond (MP 14.3) the trail passes through a wire gate, where a small trough, fed by the spring, often overflows with excellent water. This shady area would make for an ideal camp, if not for the ubiquitous rocks. (Westbounders might consider carrying water to Bellmeyer Saddle for the night. Eastbounders could continue to Eagle Creek environs in the next segment.) Continue down the rough 4WD track, with views ahead to the Morenci Mine. Pass through a gate by a trail register, less than 100 yards before reaching the Old Safford-Morenci Trail east trailhead on Black River Road (milepoint 15.0, waypoint 13250, el. 4100').

Segment 12

Segment 14