Guidebook
Segment 10: Pinaleno Mountains  24.9 miles

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Segment
Length
from
PHX
to
ABQ
Segment Status
Season
24.9 mi.
189
 
finalized & accessible
spring, summer, fall
Resources
OVERVIEW MAP
Overview Map: Segments 6-11
ELEVATION PROFILE






G.E.T. Topo Maps 30-32
Water Chart
Image Gallery: Album 3

Additional maps:
Coronado N.F. Safford & Santa Catalina Ranger Districts (USFS)
visit PLIC website


Land management agency:
Coronado National Forest Safford Ranger District (928) 428-4150





 


Beginning access point   Ending access point

FR 286 at FR 675. From Safford, take US 70 west to Pima and turn left at sign for Tripp Canyon Road / FR 286. Reach an intersection with Patterson Mesa Rd within a half mile and turn left. FR 286 resumes at right within a quarter mile, marked by metal signs (brief easement through private land). A large swinging gate soon encountered should be left as it was found. Proceed southwest on dirt 2WD FR 286. In ~15 miles from Pima reach a junction with 4WD FR 351. Keep straight on FR 286, heading up Tripp Canyon. A dirt lot and car camping area is on the right at ~19 mi. from Pima, at a signed junction with FR 675. (A 4WD vehicle could also get here via Klondyke Rd by following the directions for the "beginning access point" for Segment 9, but turning off at FR 351, taking this 4WD road to the junction with FR 286, and continuing as described above.)

 

FR 307 at Ash Creek Trailhead. From Safford, follow US 70 west to Pima, then take Main St south to its end. Turn right on Cottonwood Rd, then left on dirt 2WD Cluff Ranch Rd. Reach Cluff Ranch wildlife management area in 4 mi, where 2WD vehicles should park (~5 mi before the actual Ending Access Point for Seg 10). High-clearance 4WD may continue on Cluff Ranch Rd (now concurrent with the GET walking route in Segment 11). Keep left at the fork by main entrance to Cluff Ranch, then turn left at a 3-way junction onto signed Berry Patch Rd. Stay on the main road, which becomes 4WD Ash Creek Rd (FR 307) and follows an old water pipeline. The rough road, which crosses Ash Creek three times, ends in ~4 mi from Berry Patch Rd jct, at a turnout nearby the trailhead, which is signed with a metal post.

SEGMENT OVERVIEW

The Pinalenos are a range defined by their considerable prominence. Rising to a height of nearly 11,000 feet above the sea, they are by a respectable margin the tallest of the true Southwestern Sky Islands. The range culminates atop Mount Graham - with a vertical relief of nearly 8000 feet, the most prominent peak in the state of Arizona. According to the Nature Conservancy, the Pinalenos traverse five ecological communities and "contain the highest diversity of habitats in the shortest vertical distance of any mountain range in North America." Prickly pear and agave are at home here, only a few trail miles below an old growth forest of spruce and fir - the southernmost such forest on the continent.

In this segment our route traverses a portion of this remarkable range, often nicknamed simply "the Grahams." Using a combination of foot trails and pleasant forest roads, the GET follows the main northwest-southeast trending ridgeline, passing near scenic Riggs Lake, climbing forested Webb Peak (10,030'), and passing within range of the historic summer cabins at Old Columbine, before descending sharply along the range's dramatic east face toward the Gila Valley. The route bypasses the summit of Mount Graham itself, as the trails there are currently off-limits for the purpose of protecting one of the mountain's rare wonders, the Mount Graham red squirrel, found only here. For nearly two decades the mountain and its endangered red squirrels have been the unlikely subject of controversy between wildlife conservationists and the astronomical community, since the Pinalenos are also now home to the Mt Graham International Observatory, and indeed the dark, clear skies atop the range make this among the world's premier locations for stargazing. Nature and science appear to be coexisting for now, however harmoniously; hikers will note the telescope housing atop one of Mt Graham's sub-summits from several vantages along the route.

In June and July of 2004, the lightning-caused Nuttall Complex fire burned some 30,000 acres of forest and brush, mostly on the Pinaleno's steep east-facing slopes. This fire and attendant erosion have caused considerable damage to the trail network as well as the ecology on this part of the range. Thankfully, Ash Creek Trail, which the GET uses here, received major trail rehabilitation in 2009 and 2010 and was in excellent shape at that time. (Forested Ash Creek Canyon was largely spared the direct effects of the fire, but not the subsequent flooding.) Still, several small burn areas and sections of vague or overgrown tread create ongoing challenges elsewhere in this segment; in addition to this guide description and the topo map set, plan to pack along an adventurous attitude - the rugged scenery here will reward those who are willing to persevere.

Spring season snowpack potentially poses another challenge. Snow on the Pinalenos often lingers above 9000 feet well into April, or later following an especially wet winter. As such, eastbound thru-hikers can expect to encounter at least some snowpack between milepoints 9 and 21 in this segment, and may want to remain open to the idea of detouring to avoid some or all of it. The primary concerns are the labor of postholing through saturated spring snow and the challenge of following snowbound trail, although slope exposure may also be of concern near Clark Peak, largely avoidable with care. Refer to the route details below for more specific info, as well as the Snow Travel chapter of the GET Trek Planner.


ROUTE DETAILS

Hikers intending to traverse this entire segment may prefer to make use of the FR 286 Alternate in the segment's early miles. This alternate route avoids Johns Canyon Ridge Trail 313, which can be difficult to follow for a mile or so due to ill-defined and overgrown trail. Elsewhere this trail is in ok condition, if a bit brushy. The trail's allure, compared with the alternate route, is that it offers a more trail-intensive, scenic, and remote hiking experience on the way up to the crest. It may be particularly attractive to westbounders, who get to descend this trail from the crest so are less affected by its scant water resources (see below). Maintenance and flagging on Trail 313 is ongoing, although enough flagging was set in fall 2011 to render the trail more easily followable (for as long as the flags hold). In any case, the main route of the GET - between MP 0 of this segment and its reconvergence with the FR 286 Alternate at MP 7.5 - is described first, below, followed by the alternate route description. Whichever way you opt to begin this segment, be sure to avail yourself of the water often found in Tripp Canyon - described at the start of the FR 286 Alternate Route description - as there are few convenient, reliable sources between here and Riggs Lake nearly 14 steep, uphill miles away.

To follow the main route of the GET between MP 0 and 7.5 in this segment, rather than the FR 286 Alternate Route, take FR 675 southwest (from the unsigned junction with segment 9's 2-track road (waypoint 09160, elev. 5260'). FR 675, a pleasant, little-used 4WD track, heads up the pinyon-juniper-live oak-shaded bottom of Tripp Canyon, soon crossing the main drainage to follow its north side (water in wetter times). It crosses back in about a half mile, near where the side drainage of Johns Canyon enters from the left (water in wetter times). Above this confluence, the main canyon changes names from Tripp to Bellows Canyon. Ignore several left-forking tracks off the main road, which gradually climbs with the canyon bottom. Note occasional camping potential near roadside in this area - a safe enough bet for solitude. FR 675 ends at a small "turnout" (if that) along the boulder-strewn east bank of Bellows Canyon's drainage (1.2, waypoint 10015), the unsigned trailhead for Johns Canyon Ridge Trail 313.

Possibly marked by a cairn but otherwise unsigned, Trail 313 first runs south through woods near the drainage's left bank, then crosses it in less than a tenth of a mile. Somewhat faint but followable, the trail remains near the drainage, crossing it two more times. Near a fourth crossing note an old stock trough, no longer functional, and a little cement dam, which holds back a modest-sized pool of good water in wetter times (other times dry). Natural pools and drainage flow at the fifth and final drainage crossing (1.8, waypoint 10020) are likewise ephemeral, though fairly likely in early to mid spring following an average or better winter. Top off water bottles if fortunate here, as Riggs Lake is your next likely near-route water source.

Trail 313 soon switchbacks out of the drainage bottom - leaving it for good - and begins a sidehill ascent of the canyon's west slope. Although somewhat brushy with live oak, manzanita, and mountain mahogany, the tread along this portion is good and the trail is scenic. Occasional blowdowns pose just a minor nuisance as the trail gains elevation, eventually trending east through a shady side canyon, then up to a pleasant saddle, with camping potential (3.3, waypoint 10030, elev. 6803'). The trail leaves the saddle at the 10 o'clock position (southeast), where it runs near a fenceline for a time, with impressive first views away to the south and west that include upper Aravaipa Valley and the Galiuro Mountains. (Westbounders, the trail descends from the saddle on its north side.)

Now the trail sidehills around a steep portion of its namesake Johns Canyon Ridge, bending southeast and then south, and deftly negotiating around several crags, more of which are visible in Johns Canyon below. FR 286 can also be seen from this area, its torturous bends gouged from the ridge beyond Johns Canyon. The trail becomes increasingly faint due to lack of use and occasional obscuring deadfall, but remains followable with care. Top out on the forested crest of Johns Canyon Ridge at 4.1 (waypoint 10040, elev. 7143'), and follow it southeast, the trail playing hide-and-seek among corridors of brush. At 4.5, watch closely for where the trail leaves the ridge crest on the left (the crest becomes impassably steep), again sidehilling, though awkwardly now. (GPS at MP4.5: 32 44.014  110 03.498) (Westbounders, join a narrow portion of the ridge crest at this waypoint and follow the ridge south to 4.1, where the trail leaves the ridge again to sidehill once more on its right side, and gradually improving in character.)

For the next mile or so the trail is considerably harder - sometimes impossible - to follow, due to an old burn scar (albeit regenerating well) and attendant erosion of the tread, brushy regrowth, and the like. Watch for flagging and cairns, and follow this description carefully. After briefly contouring southeast from 4.5, the trail climbs south and quickly becomes lost among the oaks. However the tread resumes several yards in elevation higher along the slope to your right - look for flagging leading up there, or seek out an obvious copse of mature saplings with a little tunnel recently "lopped" through it. (Westbounders, losing the trail beyond this copse, head directly downslope a few yards then turn left along your original bearing to soon relocate tread.)

The trails contours south through the copse of saplings to begin a section of switchbacks that head generally up the broad "drainage" here. However some of the switchbacks have been lost to time and the elements. In any case, look for flagging, which first leads steeply up and over a nuisance blowdown. Several switchbacks later, the trail turns sharply left by a low-branched Douglas fir. If you accidentally continue straight here, you'll reach some prominent outlooks to the south and west but will need to turn back as the side trail leading there abruptly dead-ends.) (Westbounders turn right by the Douglas fir.)

Again the trail becomes faint as it heads up the broad ridge, now in a more open area. Once more you may be lured out toward a southwestward aspect with far-flung views but here again the cairned "spur trail" dead-ends, so return to the broad portion of the slope and follow a path of least resistance ever upward. The good news is that the trail becomes followable again within a tenth of a mile up the slope, but it's marked by a cairn on a ledge that's easy to miss. This important cairn is located at GPS: 32 43.970  110 03.127. (The cairn is just left of the broad portion of the slope as the slope starts to steepen in that direction.) (Westbounders, from this cairn follow a path of least resistant down the broad portion of the slope, where former switchbacks have eroded. Avoid wandering out along the western edge of the ridge where it drops steeply away, despite any evidence of a trail you may find out that way. If in doubt, seek out the following waypoint, about a tenth of a mile below the "important cairn," for guidance: 32 43.942  110 03.246. Then look for a resumption of trail tread farther below along the same general bearing.)

Turn right (south) just above the ledge cairn to pick up the sidehilling trail, which features shin-high brush initially. More cairns soon greet you at another turn - this time left (west). Now a line of cairns marks the trail at intervals leading to a broad, park-like setting with scattered pines, some with i-blazes cut into the bark. Again the trail turns - here toward the right (south) - ascends a little rise, then contours with sporadic cairns toward a somewhat faint switchback that climbs left (west). Trail 313 soon reaches the edge of the old burn area, heading obviously back into mixed conifer forest cover at GPS: 32 43.906  110 02.907 (MP 5.6). (Westbounders, from this waypoint follow faint tread west to a switchback, then look for cairned trail contouring north, soon over a little rise, then dipping to a park-like setting. Here note i-blazes on trees with cairned trail heading west, then turning south to reach a prominent cairn on a ledge, the "important cairn" with GPS waypoint listed in the previous paragraph above.)

Routefinding challenges - and most of the elevation gain - now behind you, follow Trail 313 as it wends its way west and south, first back into park-like terrain to a minor saddle with camping prospects - then on a brushy westward contour. A junction with Trail 323 at 5.8, shown on the map, was not noted. However an old signboard still marks the junction with equally-moribund Trail 312 farther ahead at waypoint 10060, with a reference to Coulter Spring (2500 vertical feet below according to maps, unvisited). Our trail - still Johns Canyon Ridge Tr 313 - turns left at the sign, climbing through another old burn area via several cairned switchbacks, and ending at an unsigned trailhead turnout along 4WD West Peak Road at 6.3 (waypoint 10070, elev. 8587'). (Westbounders, turn left into the turnout for Trail 313 just before West Peak Road goes through the notch on the ridge.) (A brief detour south on West Peak Rd (aka FR 286) leads to a gated side road accessing the summit of West Peak and its old firetower, which may be locked, but the views are good from ground level, as is the camping, albeit dry. Turkey Spring, 1.5 mi. steeply downhill via FR 286, is unreliable and not worth the time or energy expenditure to visit from here. Lookout Spring, somewhat closer, in the trackless headwaters of Johns Canyon, was unfindable in 2006.)

From the Trail 313 trailhead turnout, West Peak Road heads southeast, downhill, with the undulating backbone of the Pinaleno crest unfolding away toward still-distant, higher Mount Graham. The little-used but well-defined dirt road soon bends northeast, descending easily through open forest and meadow. It rounds the south-facing flanks of Blue Jay Peak, which are incised by several shallow drainage heads. Watch carefully just downslope from the road for Government Spring, a cement tank in an ancient corral, which is worth a look but rarely holds any usable water, and the surrounding drainage is typically damp at best. A bit more than a tenth of a mile beyond, at 7.5 (waypoint 10120, elev. 8325') an unpretentious signboard for Clark Peak Trail 301 on the right heralds our soon return to foot trail. (Main route description resumes below FR 286 Alternate Route info below. See the end of the FR 286 Alt. description for more info about potential water options in this area.)


ALTERNATE ROUTE: FR 286

ELEVATION PROFILE

The FR 286 Alternate begins at MP 0 (waypoint 09160, elev. 5260') of the main route in Segment 10 and follows Forest Route 286 toward West Peak. An option exists to remain on this road all the way to the top of the 8700-foot peak and a resumption of the main GET just beyond, while the FR 286 Alternate itself leaves the road part-way up in order to rejoin foot trail as soon as possible. Use of the FR 286 Alternate Route adds 1.7 miles to this segment's total length as stated at the head of this page.

Begin by heading west on FR 675 and passing through a vehicle camping area in forested Tripp Canyon. In 0.1 mi, at a junction, (signed in 2010) (waypoint 10010, elev. 5200') FR 675 meets better FR 286, onto which we turn right. (Water is often available just east of this junction and left of the parking area; continue past a concrete slab then down into the main drainage of Tripp Canyon, a grassy stringer among sycamores. Waypoint 09155. If the drainage is polluted by cattle, seek out a small corral at the east end of the car camping area, where a trough with float valve was noted full in fall 2011.) 2WD FR 286 leaves Tripp Canyon and climbs along a prominent ridge dividing Johns and Sawmill canyons. Follow the meandering, switchbacking road through a high desert environment of oak, agave, and pinyon, with good outlooks toward Blue Jay Ridge eastward as well as the Santa Teresa Mountains and Pinnacle Ridge to the north. Ponderosa pines begin to appear as the road approaches a junction near Dry Lake Tank. Here, at 3.9, a minor road forks left through a pine duff-carpeted vehicle camping area (waypoint 10080). Dry Lake Tank, a manmade pond that ironically holds water with some frequency, is located at the far end of the camping area (waypoint 10090), with more pristine camping opportunities in the forest beyond. The tank isn't reliable in times of drought, though. And in any event, better quality water is usually available at Sawmill Spring, located 0.4 of a mile and 300 feet downhill from the tank in the main drainage of Sawmill Canyon. (To reach the spring, walk southeast from the far end of the tank into the head of a minor drainage. A use trail starts here and heads down the drainage, which soon steepens and has occasional blowdowns. About half-way down, the trail contours out of the drainage at right, soon passing through a little flat that would make for a nice, secluded camp. Leaving the flat the trail descends steeply again, then switchbacks to the right at another blowdown in order to sidehill more gently into the main drainage of Sawmill Canyon. Now head up the canyon bottom to find the spring within 100 yards, several pools and some possible flow among stubby green horsetail plants.)

FR 286 now becomes increasingly primitive, especially beyond milepoint 5.5, where it's 4WD-accessible only. Here, at a switchback in the road, (waypoint 10100) the main GET route turns left onto signed Blue Jay Ridge Trail 314. (The sign itself may be missing, but its wooden post and a cairn were still in place at last check.) Blue Jay Ridge often holds snow into spring, but the route is very scenic and biologically diverse, and also the trail received a work crew in 2011, upon which it was found to be in excellent condition. (Otherwise, one could remain on FR 286, passing close by the summit of West Peak and its viewful summit firetower. At the height of land, FR 286 becomes West Peak Road and immediately passes the upper trailhead for Johns Canyon Trail 313, where resumes the main GET route eastbound via West Peak Rd.)

The location of Turkey Spring, shown on the map where Trail 314 leaves FR 286, was first noted in fall 2009 but was dry at the time. At the junction, look down the steep drainage, noting a white PVC pipe sticking out of the hillside about 50 feet below, and feel free to head (awkwardly) on down if it appears promising. Either way, a snowmelt pool may sometimes be present at roadside here in springtime.

Joining the Blue Jay Ridge Trail along the FR 286 Alternate, note the forest of spruce, hemlock, and douglas fir - exceptionally lush for the 7500' elevation, and more typical of the environment near Webb Peak ahead in this segment. The trail contours around the drainage of Sawmill Canyon, then turns northward onto a sunnier slope, where the vegetation quickly changes to ponderosa, gamble oak, mountain mahogany, and beargrass, and interesting views open toward the Santa Teresas.

Contour along the base of a rocky bluff to gain the crest of Blue Jay Ridge by a trail sign at 7.1 (not a junction). Turn sharply right (south) and continue on the trail, switchbacking briefly uphill, then dipping to a camp-friendly saddle among the pines (waypoint 10115). The views along this side of the ridge, down to the Gila Valley, are deep and impressive. The carefully-engineered trail now ascends with the aid of short switchbacks, descends to another saddle, then switchbacks uphill again, taking the only feasible line through this rough terrain. Top out just shy of peak 8529, then descend moderately to reach the trailhead at the end of West Peak Road. (8.5, waypoint 10118). When snow is melting you might find a little rill in the shallow drainage just before trailhead.

Follow 4WD West Peak Road south, with expansive views of the Pinaleno crest ahead. About 100 yards after passing through an open gate, rejoin the main GET route and turn left off the road onto Clark Peak Trail 301. (9.1, waypoint 10120, elev. 8330') (Westbounders, turn right here to follow the FR 286 Alternate Route, or left to follow West Peak Rd on the main GET route or to FR 286.) This is milepoint 7.5 along the main GET route. Government Spring, a cement tank in an ancient corral, visible just downhill off West Peak Road to the west, rarely holds any usable water, and the surrounding drainage is typically damp at best.


Back on the main GET route, (7.5, waypoint 10120, elev. 8325') Clark Peak Trail 301 begins on an old road bed closed to vehicles, but soon becomes a more definitively singletrack trail. (This trail received a work crew in 2010 and was in excellent condition as far as Taylor Pass, as well as the last 2 miles to the eastern trailhead along FR 803.) Improved with occasional cairns, the trail descends a southeastern ridge of Blue Jay Peak among pinyon pine, live oak, and manzanita toward Taylor Pass, with frequent short switchbacks easing the gradient. Hikers in serious need of water might consider bushwhacking over to Manzanita Spring (map-derived waypoint 10130), an unverified source; otherwise, your best bet would probably be to avoid the extra effort and press on with a purpose toward Riggs Lake (or Sawmill Canyon, for westbounders).

A barbed wire fence follows the ridgeline at Taylor Pass (9.0, elev. 7150', waypoint 10140). Eastbounders here turn left to pass through a gate in this fence, rather than continue more obviously straight on Trail 306. Once through the gate, continue eastbound on Trail 301 up along the ridge. (Westbounders would likewise turn left through the gate, then right to remain on Trail 301.) Trail work was incomplete between Taylor Pass and about milepoint 10.5, so the trail was rougher here, and especially so beyond another saddle at 9.3. (This saddle, in a forested setting with camping potential, is probably a few tenths of a mile farther along due to unmapped switchbacks.) Continue climbing via switchbacks, now entering a portion of the Taylor Fire burn area. The unmaintained switchbacks were eroded and rather indistinct in 2010, though the route was more or less obvious due to user traffic. After the first set of switchbacks the trail rounds the east side of the ridge then climbs via more switchbacks through some thorny vegetation and gamble oak. Some impromptu whacks and cuts at the vegetation had helped to define the trail corridor here. The trail reaches the edge of a meadowy area near 10.3. The next half mile continues through an older, more extensive burn, now mostly recovered by grasses and ferns, where occasional large cairns help guide the way.

In 2010, better trail resumed about half way through the meadow area, a wide, brush-free corridor that was easy to follow. Heading back into living forest beyond a height-of-land, Trail 301 contours along a west-facing slope, which tightens into a narrow ridgeline defined by the rocky prominence of Clark Peak. The Carter-Nuttall Trail, which heads downhill to the north at 11.2 (elev. 8600'), might offer a bomb-off option for springtime hikers confronting snowpack around Clark Peak, where the trail is forced to weave back and forth on either side of the crest. (Another unconfirmed bomb-off is back at Taylor Pass, where the North Taylor Trail 306 heads downhill to the north.) Often, however, the spring snowpack ahead can be negotiated, for example where the trail crosses the ridge to its east side, by leaving the bench-cut trail to climb directly up the slope among the comparitive safety of the trees. The trail can then be regained where it intersects the main ridge once again, crossing back to its sunnier west side.

Reach the trailhead terminus for Clark Peak Trail 301 at 12.2. Our route now continues along the crest of the Pinalenos via FR 803, also known as the Swift Trail. Constructed by the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corp, this portion of the scenic road (graded dirt) is accessible to passenger vehicles when open, typically mid April to mid November. Traffic is generally very light along our stretch of this route. The rest of the year the road is gated and often snowbound. Pass a picnic area with vault toilets and trash cans in less than a mile from the trailhead, then, near one of several dispersed camping areas along the road, a signed junction with FR 287 down to Riggs Lake. The first reliable water in this segment, the manmade lake is located in a very attractive forested setting, and even sports a small sand beach. At the very least, pause to fill water bottles here, then continue along the Swift Trail. (The lake's inlet, along its eastern shore, a small, pristine creek that drains from a densely forested area, may also be reliable.)

The road arrives at the pleasant meadow of historic Chesley Flat at 15.4 (waypoint 10220, elev. 9260'), named for a pioneer-era family who lived and worked on the mountain. Here the unsigned Chesley Flat Trail 311 leaves the road at left (east-northeast), the main route of the GET, bound for 10,000-foot Webb Peak and its scenic lookout tower. (However, in springtime of heavy snow years, hikers may prefer to remain on FR 803, which keeps generally below 9500', rejoining the main route below the Ash Creek trailhead at Columbine Corrals. Distances are comparable along either route.) Indistinct at first, Trail 311 skirts the southern edge of the meadow, ducking into the woods within 50 yards or so, then reaches a signed junction with Blair Trail 304. Keep right here, remaining on Chesley Flat Trail 311, which begins a switchbacking climb through a dense forest of spruce, fir, and aspen. This section of the trail saw maintenance in 2010; previously Trail 311 had served as a successful fire-break during the large Nuttall Complex Fire of 2004, helping to spare the forested west side of the range a similar fate as the east, but the trail was tree-littered and hard to follow as a result. As the grade slackens, the trail heads along the height of the broad ridge in an open area just out of the forest, the burned terrain to the north offering up distant views. Chesley Flat Trail 311 ends at a signed junction with FR 88 at 17.2.

Follow FR 88 (closed to vehicles) to the summit of Webb Peak (milepoint 17.3), at 10,030 feet the highest point on the GET in Arizona. Views from the top of the fire tower are all-encompassing: to the south rises Mt Graham with its summit telescope housing plainly visible; on the western horizon, the rugged profile of the Galiuro Mountains frames more distant Rincon Peak, the Santa Catalina and Santa Rita Mountains; northward stand the Santa Teresas and Pinal Mountains; eastward, the folds of desert ranges along our route extend to the edge of Gila Country, while the town of Safford lies some 7000+ vertical feet below, alongside the Gila River on its long and adventurous (and sometimes subterranean!) journey from New Mexico to California.

Find Webb Peak Trail 345 by a trail sign behind the lookout cabin. The trail descends eastward, soon reaching a junction where the trail splits (forming something of a loop trail from Ash Creek trailhead). The left (northward) option, the main GET route, is somewhat nicer for its varied forest and how it keeps to the backcountry. (However, this portion of the loop probably holds onto snowpack later in the season, so the other fork, trending southeast toward Ash Creek trailhead, may be the better choice in heavy snow years. It reaches the trailhead in about a mile, from which Ash Creek Trail starts north. In addition to the hiker/equestrian trailhead, this area serves as a developed campground (fee), with tables, fire grates, and vault toilets.) The main GET-fork of Webb Peak Trail trends north downhill through several switchbacks, briefly in burned terrain here, then crosses the first of several pleasant rills, likely flowing in springtime and following monsoon rains. It now heads more directly down a forested ridge, then eases into an eastbound-trending contour. This trail apparently saw a blowdown crew in 2010, as evidenced especially by the big log cuts on the final descent toward the southeast, where it joins up with Ash Creek Trail 307 (18.8, waypoint 10280, elev. 9120').

Traveling from the pines and aspens all the way to the desert below, Ash Creek Trail descends 4800 net vertical feet in nearly 7 miles, an aggressive grade, certainly, but also a remarkable one thanks to nature's handiwork on display in Ash Creek Canyon. Ahead lie waterfalls, towering pinnacles, and much of the mountain ambience that one associates so fondly with the American West. But be forewarned: due to the shady northeastern exposure here, residual snowpack may persist in springtime all the way down to the 8000 foot elevation; plan on a pace of no better than one or perhaps 1.5 miles per hour when snow is a problem. (A detour via AZ 366, with a possible hitchhike into Safford about 35 miles away by road, may be worth considering when the trail here is deeply snowpacked. AZ 366/Swift Trail is generally open to vehicle travel all year along its paved portion, which begins about 7 undulating miles beyond the turnoff to Columbine Corrals.) Trail work on Ash Creek Trail in 2009 and 2010 provided a smooth, well-defined tread with very few obstacles, for as long as it lasts.

Trail 307 immediately crosses perennial Ash Creek at 18.8 (westbounders join signed Webb Peak Trail 345 at the junction to follow the main GET route up to Webb Peak). An old relict here must be a boiler for a steam engine commonly used by early logging operations. Ash Creek tends to be lively and cold during the snowmelt season, though is usually manageable with care. Continue downhill on Trail 307, gently contouring and notably wide ahead as it follows a former logging route. Cross a tributary of Ash Creek at 19.4, where a signed trail points up the drainage to the Southern Arizona Bible Camp surrounded by national forest land (albeit the trail is virtually non-existent after a few yards). Ahead, Trail 307 fords Ash Creek again, here at the site of the former Mount Graham sawmill, now a pleasant sunny meadow with fine camping prospects.

At 20.1 (waypoint 10300), the recommended GET route turns left, climbing out of the drainage on the Ash Creek "bypass trail," while the old Ash Creek Trail itself continues down the drainage toward Ash Creek Falls and "Slick Rock," a sloping creekside monolith which the trail has been engineered to cross. However, this drainage-hugging section of trail in recent years has been damaged by floods and is potentially unsafe during times of higher water. (In 2009 the so-called bypass trail had been resigned as the main Ash Creek Trail, and the old drainage route abandoned - at least officially so; in reality, it's still a popular route for "locals" on a warm summer day.)

The "bypass trail" ascends the sunny southeast-facing wall of the canyon, offering a potential reprieve from any snowpack. The gradual, traversing climb gives way to a switchbacking descent, presenting good views of the canyon below and Pinaleno crest above. Return to the main Ash Creek Trail by a brown sign with an arrow on it at 20.7 (waypoint 10310). Turn left here at the switchback (or right, to check out the lower end of the Slick Rock feature, with its pretty cascade). (Westbounders, to proceed on the recommended GET route, turn right, heading uphill at the switchback.)

Now Trail 307 traverses north, perhaps again with snow patches in spring. Look and listen for 200-foot-high Ash Creek Falls in the drainage far below; you can edge your way down a short use-trail to an outcrop overlooking the falls, but for safety's sake consider dropping your pack first. Views ahead to the lower peaks and ridges of the range present a striking scene, with the massive granite exposures of The Pinnacles especially impressive. Shingle Mill Mesa Trail heads left at 21.3 (waypoint 10320, elev.7640'), the T-junction marked by a dilapidated wooden signpost. (Westbounders, turn left here, remaining on Trail 307.) A long series of short switchbacks doesn't quite relieve the steep descent back down to Ash Creek on our Trail 307. Reach the drainage at 21.7 according to the map, though in reality it's likely somewhat farther (elev. 7049').

The trail was formerly flood-damaged and quite rough as it headed down the drainage from here, but was in good shape following aforementioned trail maintenance. Nevertheless, the footing tends to be rocky, with frequent fords of Ash Creek, and with little climbs and descents in between. Pass the first good camp at Oak Flat - on the left (west) side of the creek - at 22.7 (waypoint 10340). This is one of the few feasible spots to camp until reaching Ash Creek Road at segment's end. A seasonal spring sometimes floods the trail just ahead, more accessible than Ash Creek itself. Finally the trail leaves the drainage for a spell, descending along viewful switchbacks. Near the steeply-graded bottom of the pitch, up-close views of a spirited cascade delight the senses, before the trail returns once more to the drainage (23.6, elev. 5646').

For its elevation, the creekside forest of Douglas fir and ponderosa pine remains surprisingly lush as you persevere in the drainage for just a little longer. With a final crossing of Ash Creek at 24.2 (waypoint 10360) the trail promptly climbs out into the surrounding high desert, contouring east along open slopes. A northward tack on good tread soon reveals the full grandeur of Ash Creek Canyon and of the Pinalenos' eastern face in total - a great, towering upheaval of granite and gneiss.

Trail 307 at last descends a low, blocky ridge to reach 4WD Ash Creek Road by a cairn and metal post at 24.9 (waypoint 10370, elev. 4672').

 

Segment 9

 

 

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