G.E.T. Guidebook

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Segment 10: Pinaleno Mountains  24.9 miles

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Segment Length	from PHX	to ABQ	Segment Status	Season
24.9 mi.	180		finalized & accessible with some use of alt. route required	spring, summer, fall
Resources
OVERVIEW MAP ELEVATION PROFILE 4 G.E.T. Topo Maps 30-32 4 Water Chart 4 Image Gallery: Album 3				Additional maps: Coronado N.F. Safford & Santa Catalina Ranger Districts (USFS) visit PLIC website Land management agency: Coronado National Forest Safford Ranger District (928) 428-4150

SEGMENT OVERVIEW

The Pinalenos are a range defined by their prominence. Rising to a height of nearly 11,000 feet above the sea, they are by a considerable margin the tallest of the true Southwestern Sky Islands. The range culminates atop Mount Graham, with a vertical relief of nearly 8000 feet the most prominent peak in the state of Arizona. According to the Nature Conservancy, the Pinalenos traverse five ecological communities and "contain the highest diversity of habitats in the shortest vertical distance of any mountain range in North America." Prickly pear and agave are at home here, only a few trail miles below an old growth forest of spruce and fir - the southernmost such forest on the continent.

In this segment our route traverses a portion of this remarkable range, often nicknamed simply "the Grahams." Using a combination of foot trail and pleasant forest roads, the GET follows the main northwest-southeast trending ridgeline, passing near scenic Riggs Lake, climbing forested Webb Peak (10,030'), and passing within range of the historic summer cabins at Old Columbine, before descending sharply along the range's dramatic east face toward the Gila Valley and town of Safford. The route bypasses the summit of Mount Graham itself, the trails there off-limits in order to protect another of the mountain's rare wonders, the Mount Graham red squirrel, found only here. For nearly two decades the mountain and its endangered red squirrels have been the subject of controversy between environmentalists and - perhaps surprisingly - astronomers. For the Pinalenos are also now home to the Mt Graham International Observatory, and indeed the dark, clear skies atop the range make this among the world's best locations for stargazing. Nature and science appear to be coexisting for now; hikers will note the telescope housing atop Graham's summit from several vantages along our route.

In June and July of 2004, the lightning-caused Nuttall Complex fire burned some 30,000 acres of forest and brush, mostly on the Pinaleno's steep east-facing slopes. This fire and attendant erosion have caused considerable damage to the trail network on this part of the range. Trail rehabilitation is planned, but in most cases has not yet been implemented. GET hikers will encounter occasional blowdowns and erosion of the trail corridor along portions of Ash Creek in this segment's final miles. (Forested Ash Creek Canyon was largely spared from the fire, but not from subsequent flooding.) In addition to this guide description and the topo map set, pack along an adventurous attitude - the rugged scenery here will reward those who persevere.

Spring season snowpack poses another potential challenge. Snow on the Pinalenos often lingers above 9000 feet well into April, or later following an especially wet winter. As such, eastbound thru-hikers can expect to encounter at least some snowpack between milepoint 9 and 21 in this segment, and should remain open to the idea of detouring to avoid some or all of it. The primary concerns are the labor of postholing through saturated spring snow and the challenge of following snowbound trail, although slope exposure may also be of concern near Clark Peak, largely avoidable with care. Refer to the route details below for more specific info, as well as the Snow Travel chapter of the GET Trek Planner.

ROUTE DETAILS

Hikers intending to traverse this entire segment will need to make use of the FR 286 Alternate in the segment's early miles. This route avoids Johns Canyon Trail 313, which is currently impassable for a mile or so due to overgrown and eroded trail, and would otherwise provide a more trail-intensive hiking experience on the way up to the crest. Trail maintenance is anticipated in the near future.

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ALTERNATE ROUTE: FR 286

ELEVATION PROFILE

The FR 286 Alternate begins at MP 0 (waypoint 09160, elev. 5260') along the main route in Segment 10 and follows its namesake Forest Route toward West Peak. An option exists to remain on this road all the way to the top of the 8700-foot peak and a resumption of the main GET just beyond, while the FR 286 Alternate itself leaves the road part-way up in order to rejoin foot trail as soon as possible. Use of the FR 286 Alternate Route adds 1.7 miles to this segment's total length as stated at the head of this page.

Begin by heading west on FR 675 and passing through a vehicle camping area in Tripp Canyon. In 0.1 mi, at an unsigned junction, (waypoint 10010, elev. 5200') FR 675 meets better FR 286. Turn right on FR 286, which eventually becomes something of a 4WD road as it climbs along a prominent ridge dividing Johns and Sawmill canyons. Follow the meandering, switchbacking road through a high desert environment of oak, agave, and pinyon, with good outlooks toward Blue Jay Ridge eastward as well as the Santa Teresas and Pinnacle Ridge to the north. Ponderosa pines begin to appear as the road approaches a junction near Dry Lake Tank. Here, at 3.9, a minor road forks left through a much more pleasant vehicle camping area (waypoint 10080). Dry Lake Tank, a manmade pond that ironically holds water with some frequency, is located at the far end of the camping area (waypoint 10090), with more pristine camping opportunities in the forest beyond.

FR 286 now becomes increasingly primitive, especially beyond milepoint 5.5. Here, at a switchback in the road, (waypoint 10100) the main GET route turns left onto signed Blue Jay Ridge Trail 314. (The sign itself was missing in spring 08, but its wooden post and a cairn were still in place.) The trail may feature occasional blowdowns, and Blue Jay Ridge often holds snow into spring, but the route is very scenic and biologically diverse. (Otherwise, one could remain on FR 286, passing close by the summit of West Peak and its viewful summit firetower. At the height of land, FR 286 becomes West Peak Road and immediately passes the upper trailhead for Johns Canyon Trail 313, where resumes the main GET route eastbound via West Peak Rd.)

Turkey Spring, shown on the map where Trail 314 leaves FR 286, was not noted or was dry during several attempted observations. However, a snowmelt pool may sometimes be present at roadside here in springtime.

Joining the Blue Jay Ridge Trail along the FR 286 Alternate, note the forest of spruce, hemlock, and douglas fir - exceptionally lush for the 7500' elevation, and more typical of the environment near Webb Peak ahead in this segment. The trail contours around the drainage of Sawmill Canyon, then turns northward onto a sunnier slope, where the vegetation quickly changes to ponderosa, gamble oak, mountain mahogany, and beargrass, and interesting views open toward the Santa Teresas.

Contour along the base of a rocky bluff to gain the crest of Blue Jay Ridge by a trail sign at 7.1 (not a junction). Turn sharply right (south) and continue on the trail, switchbacking briefly uphill, then dipping to a camp-friendly saddle among the pines (waypoint 10115). The views along this side of the ridge, down to the Gila Valley, are deep and impressive. The carefully-engineered trail now ascends with the aid of short switchbacks, descends to another saddle, then switchbacks uphill again, taking the only feasible line through this rough terrain. Top out just shy of peak 8529, then descend moderately to reach the trailhead at the end of West Peak Road. (8.5, waypoint 10118). When snow is melting you might find a little rill in the shallow drainage just before trailhead.

Follow 4WD West Peak Road south, with expansive views of the Pinaleno crest ahead. About 100 yards after passing through an open gate, rejoin the main GET route and turn left off the road onto Clark Peak Trail 301. (9.1, waypoint 10120, elev. 8330') (Westbounders, turn right here to follow the FR 286 Alternate Route, or left to follow West Peak Rd to FR 286.) This is milepoint 7.5 along the main GET route. Government Spring, a cement tank in an ancient corral, downhill off West Peak Road to the west, rarely holds any usable water.

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Back on the main GET route, Clark Peak Trail 301 begins on an old road bed reverting to nature. Singletrack trail, improved with occasional cairns, then descends among pinyon pine, live oak, and manzanita toward Taylor Pass. Hikers in serious need of water might consider bushwhacking over to Manzanita Spring (map-derived waypoint 10130), an unverified source.

A barbed wire fence follows the ridgeline at Taylor Pass (9.0, elev. 7150', waypoint 10140). Eastbounders here turn left to pass through a gate in this fence, rather than continue more obviously straight on Trail 306. Once through the gate, continue eastbound on Trail 301 along the ridge. (Westbounders would likewise turn left through the gate, then right to remain on Trail 301.) Switchback up to another saddle at 9.3, this one in a forested setting with camping potential. Continue climbing via switchbacks and occasionally vague tread toward the edge of a meadowy area near 10.3. The next half mile passes through an old burn, now mostly open grassland, where occasional large cairns help guide the way.

Good trail resumes beyond the meadow, where it follows the narrow ridgeline of Clark Peak, weaving back and forth on either side of the crest. The Carter-Nuttall Trail, which heads downhill to the north at 11.2 (elev. 8600'), might offer a bomb-off option for springtime hikers confronting snowpack on the north and east sides of Clark Peak. (Another unconfirmed bomb-off is back at Taylor Pass, where the North Taylor Trail 306 heads downhill to the north.) Often, however, the spring snowpack ahead can be negotiated, for example where the trail soon crosses the ridge to its east side, by leaving the bench-cut, snowbound trail to climb directly up the slope among the trees. The trail can then be regained where it intersects the main ridge once again.

Reach the trailhead terminus for Clark Peak Trail 301 at 12.2. Our route now continues along the crest of the Pinalenos via FR 803, also known as the Swift Trail. Constructed by the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corp, this scenic road is accessible to passenger vehicles when open, usually mid April to mid November. Traffic is generally very light along our stretch of this route. The rest of the year the road is gated and often snowbound. Pass a picnic area with toilet in less than a mile from the trailhead, then a signed junction with FR 287 down to Riggs Lake. The first reliable water in this segment, the manmade lake is located in a very attractive forested setting, and even sports a small sand beach. At the very least, pause to fill water bottles here, then continue along the Swift Trail.

Pass the pleasant meadow of historic Chesley Flat at 15.4, then arrive at a small roadside parking spot on the left at 16.4 (waypoint 10230, elev. 9450'), where the open drainage of Peters Flat climbs away to the north. In springtime you may wish to remain on FR 803, which keeps generally below 9500' and would be easy to navigate through snowpack, then rejoin the main route at Columbine Corrals. Instead, the main route from 16.4 climbs through (ironically named) Peters Flat, often in the company of a small creeklet initially. Proceed cross-country through the sloped meadow, soon crossing to the left of the drainage proper in search of the easiest grade. Continue all the way up the meadow, which is ringed by forest approaching the main ridgeline, then find a way through the trees to the very top. Chesley Flat Trail 311 follows along the height of the broad ridge in an open area just out of the forest. Turn right (east) on the trail (it's unfindable toward the west, coming from Chesley Flat) to a junction with FR 88. Trail 311 was apparently used as a fire-break during the large Nuttall Complex Fire of 2004, helping to spare the west side of the range.

Follow FR 88 (closed to vehicles) to the summit of Webb Peak (milepoint 17.3), at 10,030 feet the highest point on the GET in Arizona. Views from the fire tower are all-encompassing: to the south rises Mt Graham with its summit telescope housing plainly visible; on the western horizon, the rugged profile of the Galiuros frames more distant Rincon Peak, the Santa Rita and Santa Catalina Mountains; northward stand the Santa Teresas and Pinal Mountains; eastward, the folds of desert ranges along our route extend to the edge of Gila Country, while the town of Safford lies some 7000+ vertical feet below, alongside the Gila River on its long and adventurous journey.

Find Webb Peak Trail 345 by a trail sign behind the lookout cabin. Follow it through a junction with a spur to Ash Creek Trail 307, which may be more challenging than the main route ahead to negotiate when snowpacked. Trail 345 ends at Columbine Corrals in about a mile. This area serves as both a hiker/equestrian trailhead and developed campground (fee), with tables, fire grates, and toilet facility. Follow the loop road around to the back to find the trailhead for Ash Creek Trail 307, at 18.3 (waypoint 10270, elev. 9480'). Traveling from the pines and aspens all the way to the desert below, Ash Creek Trail descends 4800 net vertical feet in nearly 7 miles, an aggressive grade, certainly, but also a remarkable one thanks to nature's handiwork on display in Ash Creek Canyon. Ahead lie waterfalls, towering pinnacles, and much of the mountain ambience that one associates so fondly with the American West. But be forewarned: residual snowpack snow may persist in springtime all the way down to the 8000 foot elevation, and the trail below there - in Ash Creek's drainage - is currently flood-damaged, with occasional blowdowns, debris flows, and eroded tread making for somewhat slow going at times. All told, plan on a pace of no better than 1.5 miles per hour, and probably less when snow is a problem. (A detour via AZ 366, with a possible hitchhike into Safford about 35 miles away by road, may be worth considering when the trail here is deeply snowpacked. AZ 366/Swift Trail is generally open for vehicle travel all year at lower elevations.)

Trail 307 starts out on a gentle gradient, switchbacking downhill between forks of perennial Ash Creek. At 18.8 it fords the creek to reach a junction with Webb Peak Trail 345, which heads back up to the summit. An old relict here must be a boiler for a steam engine commonly used by early loggers. Ford the creek again - lively and cold though usually manageable in snowmelt - and continue downhill on Trail 307, gently contouring and notably wide ahead as it follows a former logging route. Cross a tributary of Ash Creek at 19.3, where a signed trail heads up the drainage to the Southern Arizona Bible Camp. Ahead, Trail 307 fords Ash Creek again, here at the site of the former Mount Graham sawmill, now a pleasant sunny meadow with fine camping prospects.

At 20.1 (waypoint 10300), the recommended GET route turns left, climbing out of the drainage on the Ash Creek Detour Trail, while Ash Creek Trail itself continues down the drainage toward Ash Creek Falls and "Slick Rock," a sloping creekside monolith which the trail has been engineered to cross. However, the trail in recent years has been damaged by floods and is potentially unsafe.

The Bypass Trail ascends the sunny southeast-facing wall of the canyon, offering a likely reprieve from any snowpack. The gradual, traversing climb gives way to a switchbacking descent, presenting good views of the canyon below and Pinaleno crest above. Return to the main Ash Creek Trail by a brown sign with an arrow on it at 20.7 (waypoint 10310). Turn left here at the switchback (or right, to scout the path for up-close views of 200-foot-high Ash Creek Falls). (Westbounders, to proceed on the recommended GET route, turn right, heading uphill at the switchback onto the Ash Creek Bypass Trail.)

Now Trail 307 traverses north, perhaps again with snow patches in spring. Views ahead to the lower peaks and ridges of the range present a striking scene, with the massive granite exposures of the Pinnacles especially impressive. Shingle Mill Mesa Trail heads left at 21.3 (waypoint 10320, elev.7640'), the T-junction marked by a dilapidated signpost. (Westbounders, turn left here, remaining on Trail 307.) A long series of short switchbacks nonetheless still makes for a steep descent back down to Ash Creek, and the severe slope is prone to placing blowdowns in the corridor, an unavoidable nuisance. Reach the drainage at 21.7 according to the map, though in reality it's likely somewhat farther (elev. 7049').

The trail becomes quite rough as it heads down the drainage now, a condition that persists wherever the two comingle, until ultimately parting ways, 2.5 miles ahead. Although the trail is generally followable with care, the footing tends to be eroded and rocky, with frequent fords of Ash Creek, and awkward, taxing little climbs and descents along the banks and hillsides. Tread does seem to vanish in one area: nearing Oak Flat, the canyon bottom widens and the creek now braids to form "islands." The trail must ford the creek where it first disappears along the bank, then follow one of these islands down the drainage, where tread reappears near the main creek channel within 100 yards.

Pass a good camp at Oak Flat - on the left (west) side of the creek - at 22.7 (waypoint 10340). This is one of the few feasible spots to camp until reaching Ash Creek Road at segment's end. A good spring often floods the trail just ahead, more accessible than Ash Creek itself. Finally the trail leaves the drainage for a spell, descending along viewful switchbacks with good tread but occasional blowdowns. Near the bottom of the pitch, close-up views of a spirited cascade delight the senses, but watch your footing on the final, eroded slab into the drainage (23.6, elev. 5646').

For its elevation, the creekside forest of Douglas fir and ponderosa pine remains surprisingly lush as you persevere in the drainage for just a little longer. With a final ford of Ash Creek at 24.2 (waypoint 10360) the trail promptly climbs out into the surrounding high desert, contouring east along open slopes. A northward tack on excellent tread soon reveals the full grandeur of Ash Creek Canyon and of the Pinaleno's eastern face in general - a great, towering upheavel of granite and gneiss.

Trail 307 at last descends a low, blocky ridge to reach 4WD Ash Creek Road by a cairn and metal post at 24.9 (waypoint 10370, elev. 4672').

3Segment 9

Segment 114