G.E.T. Guidebook

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Segment 14: Eagle Creek - Painted Bluffs  21.5 miles

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Segment Length	from PHX	to ABQ	Segment Status	Season
21.5 mi.	260		finalized & accessible	fall, winter, spring
Resources
OVERVIEW MAP ELEVATION PROFILE 4 G.E.T. Topo Maps 40-44 4 Town Guide: Morenci/Clifton 4 Water Chart 4 Image Gallery: Album 4				Additional maps: Clifton 1:100K Topographic (BLM) Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests (USFS) visit PLIC website Land management agency: BLM Safford Field Office (928) 348-4400

SEGMENT OVERVIEW

The past and present merge with a certain uncanniness in this segment. Initially the G.E.T. follows a continuation of the historic trade route from Safford, then joins the canyon of perennial Eagle Creek en route to the Apache National Forest. Here it climbs away on the rugged Painted Bluff Trail, where ancient Indian petroglyphs adorn secluded mountain slopes. Finally our tour tops out above the modern-day mining colossus of Morenci, affording competing perspectives of southeastern Arizona's so-called Copper Belt, one toward its natural and prehistoric wonders, the other its present-day material resources.

In the late 1800's, when the Safford-Morenci Trail (Segment 13) was in active use, it reached the boomtowns of Morenci and Clifton via Eagle Creek and Gold Gulch, following a route which modern roads have since rendered obsolete. Nor has this portion of the old route been reclaimed as a recreation trail; it is NOT part of the reconstructed Safford-Morenci Trail, but its history is still very much alive and on display. A burro trail pick-axed from the sheer walls of Gold Gulch still grants passage around an impressive slot canyon here, and old metal pitons that once served those ambitious trailbuilders yet remain in place. Gold Gulch is accessible via an alternate route and is part of the Eagle Creek Highwater Bypass in this segment, which avoids most of the 50+ creek fords along the main route.

In the old days, the vast mineral deposits of Morenci spelled paydirt. And for those who make a living from this remote and rugged country today, the dirt still pays - big time. Purchased by the Phelps-Dodge Corporation in 1881 and first developed as an underground copper mine, the lands around Morenci have continued to yield ore ever since. At a depth of nearly 1000 feet and bredth of several miles, the Morenci mine is now one of the largest open-pit mines in the world and is North America's largest producer of copper cathode, the stuff that keeps us "wired" in our modern, high-tech world. A side trip to Morenci village winds past the mine, within plain sight of its towering equipment and massive haul trucks, all the while telling the story of a land whose many and varied chapters are little-read by the outside world.

Morenci village and its sister town of Clifton are potential resupply points, reachable either on foot from the Eagle Creek Highwater Bypass or by hitchhiking from the end of this segment at US 191. Clifton is a virtual living history museum to the old mining days before Morenci stole the reigns. In fact, the celebrated Apache Geronimo was also born nearby, and Chase Creek Street in town still looks much the same as in the days when saloons and brothels lined its now-quiet flanks.

Hikers following the main route in this segment generally enjoy a leisurely pace along Eagle Creek, sloshing back and forth across the drainage as dictated by the terrain, and pausing among leafy shade trees to admire the surrounding cliffs. The upper reaches of the canyon can be a little more challenging, with a somewhat deeper channel and occasional tangles of vegetation at creekside. Likewise, the Painted Bluff Trail is rather primitive in character, is quite remote in its lower reaches, and ultimately offers a scenic and rewarding trip up to US 191 at segment's end.

ROUTE DETAILS

From the Safford-Morenci Trail east trailhead (waypoint 13250, el. 4100'), turn right onto Black River Road. The rough, graded dirt road ascends among mesquite and juniper to pass an old corral. At 0.4 of a mile, ignore a well-worn 2-track road on the left. Continue to a junction at 1.0, where the main GET route turns sharp left onto a road flanked by a pair of tan metal posts. (Or continue straight at the junction on Black River Rd to follow the Eagle Creek Highwater Bypass, a roadwalk route which avoids all but one ford of the creek and offers an option to detour on foot into Morenci and Clifton. See the description of this alternate route at the end of this chapter.)

The main GET route soon reaches a Y-intersection, taking the left fork. In 0.1 ignore a road on the right that heads out to a point above an old reservoir in the canyon of Eagle Creek. In another 0.1, turn left (west) at a t-junction, and follow the road somewhat uphill, then down to reach a first crossing of Eagle Creek in its scenic cliff-bound canyon at 1.9 (waypoint 14130, elev. 3690'). Typically ankle-to-shin deep here in its lower reaches, and 10-15 yards wide, perennial Eagle Creek is forded about 50 times in the 9 or so miles the GET follows it. The channel gradually narrows up-canyon, and in a few spots may be thigh-deep during average flow periods, especially in the final two miles. The current is typically reduced at the deeper crossings. Be sure to treat the creek water before drinking, particularly due to likely cattle activity upstream.

Ford the creek, passing beneath an old tram car that must have served the former reservoir downstream. (Westbounders, ford the creek beneath the tram car and join the road that heads right from the opposite bank, soon leaving the drainage.) A cobbly 2-track parallels the creek upstream, which we follow, here passing the remains of a gaging station.

The willow-lined creek soon turns north, the track fording it at frequent intervals. At 2.4 a spur track on the west bank accesses a potential camping spot among shady sycamores and mesquite trees. (The site is likely popular with fishermen as well; all of Eagle Creek in this area is owned by the Phelps-Dodge Corporation [now Freeport McMoRan, Inc], which thankfully allows public use of the resource.)

The tan and buff conglomerate cliffs on the east wall of the canyon are impressive near the confluence with Horseshoe Canyon, where the creek bends west. Probably the most spectacular part of Eagle Creek Canyon occurs near 4.3, where another, unnamed drainage cuts deeply down to the main canyon. A scenic camp could be made a ways north, near 5.5, on a sandy flat just after fording to the west bank.

The red, iron-rich volcanic exposures of Coronado Ridge soon come into view off to the north, while our canyon now widens a bit, offering the option to follow the 2-track road or impromptu horse/cow paths that leave and rejoin the 2-track at intervals. The meandering paths are often easier on the feet than the rocky, creekside track. At 6.9 another potential camp appears, above the cobbles on the north bank, among some shady walnut trees.

With perhaps 38 of 50 fords now behind you, the 2-track comes to a gate in a fenceline at 8.1, where the road ends. Pass through the gate, which is unlocked and unposted, and turn right, circumventing an old ranch house, the bulk of which is posted private property. Primary vehicle access to the lonely dwelling must be via the San Carlos Reservation, rather than up the creek.

The obvious way north up the canyon keeps to the west bank initially, passing a tree with a rope-swing. (Westbounders - heading south - should be on the west bank approaching the homestead, as a fenceline spans the drainage ahead.) Soon pick up a de-facto pack trail, which, like the 2-track, follows along the banks and occasionally fords. Seemingly well-trod by horses, the pack trail attempts to stay back from the creek corridor as much as possible, thereby avoiding the densest riparian vegetation. The trail occasionally branches and can take some finding again after it fords, though pruned tree limbs here and there offer reassurance. Wildlife is abundant in this pristine portion of the canyon; watch especially for raccoons and coatimundi along the cottonwood and sycamore-lined creek.

The final mile along the creek is somewhat rough and slow-going, with deeper fords and occasional deadfall tangles at creekside due to flash flooding. Beyond the side drainage of Pistol Creek (shown on the map), the pack trail generally sticks to the east bank of Eagle Creek. Keep to this side of the creek as the canyon bends southeast. The trail may now fade out, but in any case stay back from the creekside riparian zone, which is quite dense here. Note the prominent red cliff straight ahead, an obvious landmark. Continue in the flood plain as long as possible, then ford just before the next bend. Soon ford again to the east bank and watch carefully for the entrance to Knight Canyon on the right, at 10.6 (waypoint 14180, elev. 4015'). The confluence is somewhat inconspicuous, as Knight Canyon is willow-lined and sediment-laden here, although flagging tape may mark the turn-off. (Westbounders, emerging from Knight Canyon, ford Eagle Creek here, then walk down the opposite bank and ford back across just beyond the bend, where the creek turns northwest. Find a way through the riparian growth, then back in the open turn northwest. Look for the pack trail near the bank where the creek turns south again.)

Now in the Apache National Forest, proceed cross-country up the drainage of Knight Canyon, passing through a gate at 11.0. The canyon floor becomes increasingly rocky, especially as it turns north. Climb over and around some truck-sized boulders, then enter a narrow box, where water often flows in pools. The wet footing here is awkward, as is the vegetation, but the spring-fed water is very fine. Pass the spring source near 11.4. Technically this is Painted Bluff Trail 13, sans trail tread for now. Something of a track does appear on the left bank approaching Cottonwood Corral, which the trail passes directly through at 12.3 (waypoint 14210). Now defunct, the old corral would make for a flat and smooth campsite, with spotty live oak shade and some intriguing rock formations adorning nearby ridges.

Beyond the corral you may find some semblance of a cairned trail that crosses the drainage and follows up the opposite side. Otherwise, walk up the drainage itself. At 12.7 (waypoint 14220) our route turns north, trading Knight Canyon for an unnamed canyon that nevertheless is the more prominent of the two. As this new canyon bends east, note another drainage that joins from the north. (Trail 571 may or may not be noted in the vicinity, a likely obscure, cairned route that connects with Spur Cross Trail 8 - a very scenic, as-yet-unexplored alternate route toward the end of this segment.)

The main GET route continues east via Trail 13, which alternately follows the banks and crosses the rocky drainage at cairns. The trail may be brushy but passable from here to 15.5, beyond which much-needed maintenance was conducted in spring 2008 by an Apache National Forest trail crew under the fine direction of Jeff Gilmore.

Cottonwood Spring typically flows for 200 yards in the drainage, below 13.8. Camping is possible where the sandy drainage is dry just beyond it. Half-way along a trail sign nailed to a sycamore seems out-of-place in this secluded area, with "Hwy 666" (now US 191) 9 miles away (likely closer to 8) and Eagle Creek 4 miles back (more like 3). The cattails in the drainage indicate that Cottonwood Spring is a reliable source. Be sure to fill your bottles here, as the next fairly dependable water is ~11 uphill miles away at Fry Spring.

The cairned trail shortcuts the drainage's meandering course, crossing it at frequent intervals, while rolling hillsides of scattered mesquite cast a decidedly arid air. Finally the trail crosses to the north bank one final time, turns right alongside it, and climbs a short ways to reach a corral at 15.5 (waypoint 14240). Pass through the corral and turn right beyond it. (Westbounders continue through the corral and turn right, soon descending to cross the drainage at a cairn.)

Old cattle paths may briefly confuse the way ahead, where our trail soon angles somewhat northeast, then climbs east to a level height-of-land. From here to Wood Canyon the trail contours along south-facing slopes, with occasional short climbs and descents. A cement trough on the left is probably fed by Pinto Spring high on the slope above, but is usually dry.

Almost directly above the cement trough here, some 500 feet higher than the trail, an Anasazi rock art site is located among the colorful cliff exposures of the Painted Bluffs. One is left to ponder the significance of its seeming inaccessibility. According to Jeff Gilmore, the site contains some of the best preserved prehistoric rock art in the Southwest, due in no small part to its rugged isolation. (The site reportedly contains pictographs as well.)

The trail commences a final descent into Wood Canyon, crossing the rocky, usually dry drainage at 17.1. Just before the crossing, a side trail on the right leads to an attractive campsite in a secluded, live-oak-forested setting. Just by the camp is Curve Spring, an unreliable pool (or series of pools) in a bedrock portion of the wash (waypoint 14250).

The trail turns left up the east bank of the drainage, then heads right to climb away on more prominent tread. (Westbounders, the trail turns left as it approaches the drainage, heading south along the bank for a ways, then crosses the wash.) Back in more open terrain, pass a cleared area on the right in 0.1, which could fit a tent or tarp. The recently-maintained trail corridor is in generally good condition, with occasional large cairns offering reassurance. Dip awkwardly into a minor drainage, then climb away toward the east, reaching a gate at 18.2 (waypoint 14260). Commanding views open back down the broad expanse of Wood Canyon toward distant peaks beyond Eagle Creek.

The trail now slabs across the rocky slope as it ascends southeast, traversing among pinyon pines in partially-burned terrain. Arrive at a prominent saddle at 18.6 (waypoint 14270, elev. 6480'). A small, somewhat sloped campsite with fire ring is here, nestled among Arizona cypress trees. Here the Morenci Mine comes into view off to the east, presenting a sudden, striking contrast to the landscape behind you. The open-pit copper mine's orange tailings walls are enormous, a fact which only hints at the collosal scale of the ongoing excavation. Massive haul trucks plumb the depths day and night, yet from this vantage appear as mere toys.

From the saddle the trail heads northeast, again winding through partially-burned terrain, now with scrub oak and occasional Arizona cypress, which are uncommon to this region, particularly at such a density. Briefly out of the burn, reach a level, airy perch at 19.4, where an old wooden plank supported by rocks serves as a bench, inviting pause. The area has been laboriously cleared of debris and would make for a fine, viewful camp.

The overgrown limbs of scrub oak and mountain mahogany once made for a scratchy walk, but the recently-tended trail remains good en route to a drainage crossing at 19.8 (waypoint 14290). After ascending a small rise below a stock impoundment, singletrack trail ends and Painted Bluff Trail 13 continues to the trailhead as an old 2-track road. The 2-track climbs north, then trends east in open, grassy terrain. Continue straight at 20.2, where an eroded track climbs away at left. The mine is in view once again, though soon enough will become a distant memory (except, that is, for those planning a side-trip into Morenci!).

The sporadic burn zone resumes as the road descends steeply north, most notable as it is on the more forested north-facing slopes. Descending a small red-clay knoll, the old 4WD turns left, soon contouring east, then turning north again to descend toward a crossing of the canyon's main drainage. Here our road bends southeast, passing some shady live oaks. Ignore a side road that leaves at left and continue climbing southeast on the main 4WD. (Westbounders stay left, descending.) Painted Bluff Trail ends in less than half a mile at 21.5 (waypoint 15010, elev. 6250') by a large dirt parking area off of US 191. (Westbounders, look for a cairned metal sign at the northwest end of the lot. Just beyond it, a wooden sign for the Painted Bluff Trail indicates which 2-track road to take here.)

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ALTERNATE ROUTE: EAGLE CREEK HIGHWATER BYPASS

ELEVATION PROFILE

This alternate route can be used during times of high water along Eagle Creek, as well as to detour into Morenci and Clifton on foot, rather than via hitchhiking from the end of the segment. One ford of the creek is still required, but would only very rarely prove unmanageable on foot. The first part of the Bypass follows scenic dirt roads, followed by a protracted roadwalk on US 191, which - while also scenic, low-speed, and 2-lane - is nevertheless paved and carries at least some traffic. In its final miles the Bypass follows old jeep tracks to a rejoining of the main route at milepoint 1.1 in Segment 15. Beyond Eagle Creek and Gold Gulch, the Bypass route is waterless. All told, the Bypass is shorter than the main route from Segment 14 into 15 by about 6.5 miles (not counting an optional side-hike to and from Morenci).

Current streamflow data for Eagle Creek is available from the USGS here. The data is recorded not far above the bypass route's single ford. Suffice it to say, readings in the near-normal to somewhat-elevated range for any given date should allow for safe crossing.

From the road junction at 1.0 of the main route, (0.0 of the bypass) keep right (east) on Black River Rd. Soon descend rather steeply into the scenic gorge of Eagle Creek, passing a ranch on the right just before the dirt road fords the creek, at 0.6 (waypoint 14020, elev. 3600').

Eagle Creek is typically 10 yards wide and ankle-to-calf-deep here. Despite the pumping plant just upstream, and almost certain cattle activity, the perennial water seems to be as suitable for drinking (with treatment) as other creeks its size along the route. Just beyond the creek, the Bypass route turns left along the road (now called Lower Eagle Creek Rd), while the Gold Gulch Spur heads right, an interesting alternative that meets up with the Bypass again in a few miles. (Refer to the GET topo map set.) Use the Bypass in order to avoid further fords of Eagle Creek, or in times of high runoff or imminent flash flooding, when the otherwise intriguing slot in Gold Gulch would be dangerous to enter. The Bypass route follows Lower Eagle Creek Rd past the pump house, then turns right and switchbacks uphill, soon passing the curious ruins of a Spanish missionary-style church. The road finally tops out on a scenic ridge above the gorge, and continues east to cross the shallow drainage of upper Gold Gulch, where the Gold Gulch Spur rejoins (waypoint 14070). Distances are similar along either route.

From milepoint 0.6 of the Bypass, on the east bank of Eagle Creek, the Gold Gulch Spur heads right (south). Follow the rough jeep track, which soon dabbles with the creek again. The canyon, with its richly hued, eroded cliffs and pinnacles rising 1000 feet above the tall creekside greenery, is truly a feast for the senses. Eagle Creek here is privately owned by the Phelps Dodge Corporation (now Freeport McMoRan, Inc), which nonetheless allows recreational use of the canyon, including camping. The jeep track fords the creek here and there; some of the fords may be deeper (but with gentler current) than others. Pass some potential campsites on the right (west) bank, not long before the side canyon of Gold Gulch enters on the left, at 1.5 (waypoint 14040).

The entrance to Gold Gulch is fairly obvious - the first prominent side canyon, with a deep floor and small grove of cottonwoods near its mouth. Turn left onto a cobbly side track to ford Eagle Creek again, then enter the narrow gulch. (Or, to visit the hot spring shown on USGS maps, it appears that one would continue another half mile down Eagle Creek.) The dry creek bed of Gold Gulch soon narrows to a beautifully sculpted slot canyon, which is navigable for about 200 feet, where an impassable pour-off may nonetheless delight with a thin rivulet of fine-tasting water.

Curiosity quenched, backtrack out of the slot, and look carefully for an old trail that leaves the wash on its south bank. The trail heads up-canyon, paralleling the drainage while ascending slightly along the base of a cliff, past a grove of mesquite, and soon reaching a switchback. At the switchback it should be possible to clamber up the low-angle cliff to a rejoining of the trail above - an option if the trail's modest exposure seems problematic. Otherwise, follow the trail - a narrow side-cut notch in the cliff face - as it climbs through another switchback. This trail was apparently built in the early days of the Safford-to-Morenci trade route; the occasional pitons below the trail aren't of any use now. Beyond the bare rock, the trail contours along a brushy bench, remaining close by the south wall of the canyon. Follow the bench to its intersection with the main wash of Gold Gulch, just above another impassable pour-off. (Westbounders, upon reaching this pour-off, veer left around it onto the bench, keep the cliff wall close on your left and continue until it seems you cannot proceed further. Here look for the notched trail in a low-angle cliff, with conspicuous bolts.)

Eastbound, Gold Gulch continues as a non-technical slot, although you may need to remove your pack in a couple of spots in order to hoist yourself unencumbered over small pour-offs. It's hard to imagine how pack animals would have ever negotiated these narrow, serpentine canyon walls. In dry weather only, secluded camping may be possible where the canyon widens into a box, especially inviting when the slot below happens to contain pools of water. Proceed widely around a final pour-off by following the brushy slope on its left side. The slot/box portion of the drainage ends here, at 2.0 (waypoint 14050)

Walk up the wide wash of Gold Gulch, negotiating a couple of fencelines, to reach a 4WD crossing at 2.9 (waypoint 14060). A corral and unreliable stock pond are on the left. Continue cross-country up the wash, at 3.6 passing beneath a trestle-supported water pipeline serving the Morenci mine. Bighorn sheep are often seen grazing near this pipeline, especially where it first climbs from Eagle Creek farther to the west. The wash reaches graded, 2WD Lower Eagle Creek Rd, here rejoining the Bypass route eastbound (waypoint 14070).

Turn right, and follow the road northeast. The vivid orange tailings of the Morenci open pit loom dead ahead. (Westbounders, turn left off the road to follow the Gold Gulch Spur down the wash of Gold Gulch, or remain on the road to keep to the Eagle Creek Highwater Bypass.)

Lower Eagle Creek Rd curves and climbs, passing a ranch on the right, then ends at an intersection with paved, 2-lane US 191 at 6.1 (waypoint 14080, elev. 5200'). This curving mountain highway is known as the Coronado Trail, as it generally follows the route of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado's expedition in search of the fabled Cities of Gold. Traffic is generally light, and the highway is low-speed, but the road is narrow and with only a minimal shoulder in places. Alternatively, one could try hitchhiking. In any case, here the Eagle Creek Bypass turns left, or to detour 5 miles into Morenci head right, following US 191 south.

Side Route to Morenci & Clifton

US 191 heads south, then curves east by a storage yard, where you may witness some of the goliath mining equipment up close. A historic Catholic cemetery is nearby on the left, now all that remains of the town of Old Morenci, long since consumed by the ever-expanding mine (and reincarnated as the present-day village of Morenci, ahead). The highway loses elevation through a series of dramatic hairpin turns, affording revealing views north into one of the mine's main ore pits. Enter a 60 yard-long tunnel, which grants safe passage via a pedestrian walkway. Beyond, a huge conveyor overhead delivers quarried material to a sorting facility. Use caution when entering the short underpass ahead - eastbounders must walk along the left shoulder to avoid a blind curve on the right. (Westbounders, approach the underpass by walking behind a guardrail on the left side of the road, then cross the road to enter the underpass on the right side.)

Reach a traffic light by the main entrance to Phelps Dodge Morenci Inc., where the mine's low-grade ores are processed into pure copper cathode (via a supposedly enviro-friendly leaching process), then shipped by train to smelting facilities outside the area. Continue south on US 191 about 1.4 miles to Morenci village. The village plaza, with post office, bank, restaurants, supermarket, and nearby Morenci Motel, is on the right. (To visit Clifton and historic Chase Creek Street, you can remain on now-busy US 191 for 3 more miles, or follow an old railroad grade - quiet but longer - as shown on the map set.)

From 6.1 of the Eagle Creek Highwater Bypass, the route heads north along US 191, soon affording stunning first glimpses down into the Morenci mine. You may note the haul trucks, massive in size but here dwarfed by the moonscape of rock below. An official, signed overlook is at 7.4, a good place to get off the road for a bit. The mine remains close at hand for the next 4 miles or so; the highway here has been relocated a number of times in order to accommodate the mine's perpetual expansion. Finally the highway enters a more forested environment as it descends into the drainage of Chase Creek. Less than a mile beyond, at 12.7, Chesser Gulch enters from the east. A dam is located not far below the confluence, which is fenced off, but the gulch is accessible from just above, immediately beyond the highway overpass of Chase Creek's wash. Here turn off US 191 at right and walk to the end of the fence line, turn right again and follow alongside the wash to pick up an old jeep track that heads up Chesser Gulch. The old track is unused by vehicles and somewhat vague but should be followable without concern. (Westbounders, leave the old road at right to walk up the wash of Chase Creek a short ways, then exit at right and continue north to the end of the fence. Turn left and join US 191 south.)

Ignore a side track heading up a drainage on the right near 13.9. Leave the main track near 14.2 (waypoint 14110) and proceed north, cross-country for a tenth of a mile to join another track (the two don't quite connect). Turn left and follow the road northwest up the drainage to its end at FR 8375 (15.1, waypoint 15030, elev. 5980'). The Eagle Creek Highwater Bypass ends here, which is milepoint 1.1 of Segment 15.

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3Segment 13

Segment 154