Guidebook
Segment 1: Superstition Wilderness
28.8 miles
Guidebook
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Segment
Length
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from
PHX
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to
ABQ
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Segment
Status
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Season
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28.8
mi.
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0
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finalized
& accessible
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fall,
winter, spring
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| Resources |
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OVERVIEW
MAP
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ELEVATION
PROFILE
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G.E.T. Topo Maps 1-4
Town Guide: Phoenix
Water Chart
Image Gallery: Album
1
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Additional
maps:
Tonto National Forest (USFS)
Superstition Wilderness (USFS) visit
PLIC website
Land managing agency:
Tonto N.F. Mesa Ranger District (480) 610-3300
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| Beginning
access point |
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Ending
access point |
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Forest
Route 78 at Dutchman Trail #104. First Water Trailhead
is accessible by 2WD passenger vehicle. See Town Guide for
directions to here from downtown Phoenix and Apache Junction.
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Trail
#109 at Forest Route 172A. Rogers Trough Trailhead is
accessible by 2WD high-clearance vehicles in dry weather,
otherwise 4WD required. Two miles east of Florence Junction,
turn north off US 60 onto FR 357, to FR 172, then right
on FR 172A. Bear left at jct with FR 650 and continue short
distance to trailhead, appx. 14 mi. from US 60.
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SEGMENT
OVERVIEW
The Superstition
Wilderness of Arizona's Tonto National Forest encompasses a unique,
diverse, and dramatic landscape of canyons, mesas, and volcanic
peaks, much of it occuring in the lower and upper Sonoran desert
life zones with their equally unusual communities of plant and
animal life. As such, this segment is truly a feast for the senses;
a fitting place to begin or end an extended journey on the Grand
Enchantment Trail.
Our route
follows an extensive and meandering network of foot trails, varying
in condition from well-trod and easily followable, to vague and
overgrown in places. In general, the trail sections nearest the
major trailheads (First Water, Peralta, and Rogers Trough) receive
the most use and are maintained accordingly (either officially
so or by virtue of all the foot and hoof traffic). Farther in
the backcountry, where comparitively few users go, trail conditions
tend to be more rough, and unavoidably overgrown with catclaw
and other bushes, at least in corridors here and there. Overall,
the terrain in this segment is quite rocky and rough, with a fair
amount of climbing and descending as the trails negotiate passes
between the many steep-walled canyons for which the "Supes"
are renowned. For long-distance hikers just starting out, rest
assured: While the way may seem difficult, and indeed it is unavoidably
so here, the rewards are yet evident all around, and the route
does become somewhat easier once it joins the Arizona Trail near
the eastern end of this segment and continuing into segment 2.
With the exception
of two generally reliable water sources (Charlesbois Spring and
La Barge Spring), water can be rather scarce in dry times, so
be sure to carry enough of it despite the extra packweight. Impromptu
campsites are encountered with some frequency along the way, and
the going at either end of this segment can sometimes get a little
crowded, but for the most part hikers can expect a wilderness
experience with plenty of solitude among these mystical and legendary
desert hills.
ROUTE
DETAILS
First Water
Trailhead may be approached via dirt FR 78, or on foot via a spur
trail (signed Dutchman Trail) that parallels this road from First
Water equestrian parking less than half a mile to the west. A
self-service pay station is here - required only if parking a
vehicle. (The Forest Service had waived the parking fee as of
spring 2007.) First Water Trailhead (no water available) also
has restrooms, an information board, and a trailhead register.
The Grand
Enchantment Trail begins on Dutchman Trail #104, which heads east
beyond the register and immediately enters the Superstition Wilderness.
Distant Weaver's Needle is just visible above nearer peaks as
the wide trail descends gently to a junction with Second Water
Trail #236 at 0.3 miles. Turn right here, staying on Trail
104, soon reaching a side drainage, then crossing usually-dry
First Water Creek several times in the company of some intriguing
cliffs of welded volcanic ash (tuff). The trail climbs gradually,
reaching a low pass and then higher Parker Pass at 2.3,
a scenic place for a rest break. Descending east, the trail
jogs briefly north at an old junction, then turns east again to
cross the wide wash of West Boulder Creek at 3.1. A campsite
is located on the right, just beyond the braided wash.
Weaver's Needle
reappears to the south as Trail 104 reaches a junction with Black
Mesa Trail 241 at 3.6, then turns south toward junctions
with Boulder Canyon Tr 103 and Bull Pass Tr 129 in quick succession.
Trail 104 now enters dramatic, saguaro-studded East Boulder Canyon,
often with pools of water available about half-way up, the presence
of which may be heralded in early spring by the staccato call
of canyon tree frogs. Pass Peralta Canyon Tr 102 on the right.
Pay attention at 4.8 (mapset waypoint 01070) - here our
Trail 104 leaves the drainage to the left at a vague, unsigned
junction. (A de facto path continues straight, soon emerging into
an open area that has been overcamped in the past.) Our Trail
104 climbs the canyon's east side via a long switchback. The trail
reaches Upper Black Top Mesa Pass, then descends east to a signed
junction with Terrapin Trail #234 at 5.6. Continue straight,
remaining on Dutchman Trail 104.
Soon pass
a mediocre campsite on the right, then cross the drainage of Needle
Canyon. Trail 104 now turns north and briefly enters a "rock
garden" with large, overhanging boulders that provide welcome
shade. The trail remains close to the drainage on its east side,
possibly with pools or flowing water available in wetter times,
then heads across an open flat to a signed junction with Bull
Pass Trail 129 at 6.8. (Bull Pass Trail heads west, climbs
and descends steeply over its namesake pass, then returns to the
Dutchman Trail near MP 3.7 in this segment.) Remain on Trail 104,
now heading east. Look back for final views of Weaver's Needle
as the trail contours and descends toward La Barge Canyon, en
route passing a junction with Cavalry Trail 239.
Trail 104
reaches the wide, sandy bottom of La Barge Canyon at 7.1
(waypoint 01100), and turns right, south. The trail keeps to the
west side of the wash, soon passing a good campsite on the left.
After more than a mile, the trail crosses the drainage, with good
views north back toward the weathered volcanic cliffs of Black
Mountain, then reaches an unmarked junction at 8.5 (waypoint
01110). Here our Trail 104 turns right, while a side trail continues
straight (east) toward Charlesbois Spring,
where it ends. The spring (in true Old West tongue-in-cheek style,
pronounced "Charlie Boy") is a surprisingly deep pool
(sometimes a series of pools) located in the shady drainage, often
algae-covered but considered to be reliable even in dry times.
Trail 104
proceeds south, climbing somewhat and passing a junction with
Peters Trail 105 on the left. Our trail remains above the scenic,
saguaro-flanked drainage of La Barge Canyon initially, then dips
to cross it a few times, along the way entering a lush area of
sycamores and sugar sumac with camping available. A final wash
crossing and brief climb lead to a signed junction with Red Tanks
Trail 107 at 9.8 (waypoint 01140). Here, turn left onto
Trail 107, leaving Dutchman Trail 104.
La
Barge Spring is located in a lush riparian area to
the left a short distance ahead, with a couple of potential campsite
nearby. Look (and listen) for the spring near the base of the
steep embankment across the drainage. Climb the bank to reach
the spring trough, a convenient place to fill your bottles. The
spring must emerge from the cliff face not far above the trough.
Occasional
cairns guide the way as Trail 107 - which sees less use than the
Dutchman Trail - meanders back and forth across the creekbed in
Red Tanks Canyon, reaching a junction with Whiskey Springs Trail
#238 at 11.7. Turn left, remaining on Trail 107 and soon
entering narrow and dramatic Upper La Barge Box. The trail crosses
the rocky drainage to its right (south) side, sometimes with pools
of water nearby, then after an awkward little climb returns to
cross the drainage once more to its left side. At this second
crossing, look carefully for cairns leading the way ahead and
do not continue up the drainage itself by mistake. The trail climbs
steeply away from the drainage on its north side, then contours
eastbound along the flank of the rugged canyon to its head. The
Box, flanked by tall rust-colored volcanic cliffs and densely
vegetated with saguaro cactus, is especially impressive when carpeted
in wildflowers in the early spring of wet years.
Beyond the
box, at 13.2, Trail 107 continues straight while our route
now turns left (north) onto Hoolie Bacon Trail #111. This trail
climbs somewhat vaguely among prickly pear then descends a bit
into the shallow head of Trap Canyon, with a few shady camping
possibilities among the junipers. The catclaw in this area was
quite bad in places as of fall 2010, the byproduct of a wet spring
and summer. The overgrowth, compounded by the presence of several
beaten paths in this area, may briefly confuse the way ahead.
Be especially careful to avoid continuing straight up the drainage
at waypoint 01200 onto an abandoned trail. Our Trail 111 turns
right here, possibly as indicated by a small cairn, climbing away
from the drainage, as shown on the map. The long undulating climb,
through Horse Camp Basin and beyond, rewards with spectacular
views at a pass along Horse Ridge at 15.5, (waypoint 01210)
from which the prominent Four Peaks are visible to the north,
at the southern end of Arizona's Central Highlands region. The
trail proceeds down the other side, steeply and among loose rock
at first. It passes near the dry cement tank of Nighthawk Spring,
then enters the canyon basin of Tortilla Creek. Just after crossing
a minor wash, the trail enters a little flat and briefly becomes
vague. Here turn left, possibly following cairns a short ways,
and paralleling the wash you just crossed. Our trail soon joins
up with the main drainage of Tortilla Creek (which sometimes has
pools), heading northbound. Eventually the trail crosses to the
right side of the drainage, then leaves it. A brief ascent leads
to a junction with JF Trail #106 on a wide open flat (17.5,
waypoint 01220).. The 4WD-accessible Tortilla Well trailhead lies
a mile or so north of here.
From the trail
junction, turn right, south, onto Trail 106. Our route climbs
gradually along a wide ridge, now in the somewhat cooler, Upper
Sonoran life zone. After a mile or so it begins to contour, occasionally
descending, and reaches a small drainage containing Clover
Spring at 21.3. A small campsite is here, and
in wetter times, a few pools in the potholed drainage a short
ways below the trail crossing. (More pools may be found about
0.1 mi. farther down the drainage.) Beyond, Trail 106 resumes
its meandering climb, becoming increasingly hard to follow in
places and requiring that one remain attentive to small, impromptu
cairns along the way (especially when heading the other way, it
seems, although individual routefinding challenges tend to be
isolated and short-lived). The trend toward gains in elevation
ends abruptly at 21.7, as Trail 106 now drops steeply to
the east side of the ridge, passes through an area rather overgrown
with mountain mahogany, and levels out a bit near the head of
Tortilla Creek's drainage (waypoint 01250). Watch carefully for
the vague trail as it forks left, bending around to the east.
(The right fork may lead west into the upper drainage of Tortilla
Creek, from which a side trail may then lead south to Mullin Spring,
as shown on the topo map, but this is unverified.) Thicket-strewn
Trail 106 then resumes climbing to top out at a ridgecrest trail
junction by an old corral at 22.7 (waypoint 01260). A good
dry camp could be made here.
From the corral
and trail junction, the JF Trail 106 continues right, while our
route turns left, north, onto Rogers Canyon Trail #110. This trail
is in better shape here, and soon climbs to viewful Tortilla Pass
(4600'), (a small campsite is just off to the left [west], unseen
from the trail) then contours downhill before a final switchbacking
descent into the prominent drainage north of the pass. Trail 110
- still with discernable tread - now follows the brushy, overgrown
drainage down to its mouth at 24.7. Welcome to Angel Basin,
a beautiful (and much-enjoyed) grassy meadow with shade trees,
ample camping opportunities, and sometimes water in Rogers
Creek. Frog Tanks Trail #112 heads left here, while
we continue straight ahead on Rogers Canyon Trail 110, a boulder-strewn
affair in this part of the canyon, hemmed in by sheer cliffs.
Rogers Canyon
Cliff Dwelling is soon visible across the drainage on its south-facing
exposure. This small but remarkably well preserved site was home
to a small Salado Indian community 700 years ago, and is well
worth the short scramble to see it up close. (The more difficult
to reach alcove at left contains an intact structure.) Beyond,
our trail parallels and occasionally follows the rockbound drainage
of Rogers Canyon, pleasant in its setting of shady live oaks.
Trail 110 ascends gradually south, crossing back and forth. It
passes an obvious campsite on the right, (and several that are
less obvious, across the drainage on its east side) then finally
leaves the drainage on its left bank to end at a junction with
Reavis Ranch Trail #109. Here, at 27.2 (waypoint 01280),
the Grand Enchantment Trail joins the Arizona Trail southbound
by turning right onto Trail 109. (Left, northbound on the AZTrail/Tr109,
leads in about a mile to the gravesite of Elisha Reavis, the famed
"Hermit of the Superstitions," which may require some
effort to locate.)
Following
the Arizona Trail / Reavis Ranch Tr 109 south - well used and
better maintained - our route returns to the banks of Rogers Creek,
occasionally crossing it, then climbs to a more open area near
28.5, where the trail passes through a wire gate. If the
creek hasn't been flowing, you may at least find pools
of water in the drainage near here. West Pinto Trail
#212 (signed) heads sharply left near 28.7, (westbounders,
turn left onto Tr 109) - not our route, but worth following for
a quarter mile or so if you need water, as Rogers
Spring (shown on maps, located near trailside on the
lower slopes of Iron Mountain) is reportedly more reliable than
the drainage of Rogers Creek. Meanwhile, our Trail 109 continues
south, soon ending at the large dirt parking area of Rogers Trough
Trailhead at 28.8 (waypoint 02010), just outside the boundary
of the Superstition Wilderness.
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